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Learn How To Plant, Care Or Get Your Amaryllis To Re-Bloom!

Hippeastrum, Large Flowering Amaryllis, Double Amaryllis, Cybister Amaryllis, Galaxy Amaryllis, Diamond Amaryllis, Spider Amaryllis

Amaryllis, Amarylis Bulbs, Hippeastrum, Hippeastrum Bulbs, Amaryllis Re-bloom, Forcing Amaryllis

Amaryllis plants are often associated with the holiday season, as their bulbs can be “forced” to bloom indoors during this time by manipulating their growing conditions. This makes them a popular gift item and a festive addition to holiday décor.

What is Amaryllis?

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is a genus of flowering plants native to South America, known for their large, showy flowers and attractive foliage. Here’s an overview of amaryllis and its various characteristics:

Description: Amaryllis plants produce strap-like leaves that grow in a rosette pattern. The foliage is typically green, glossy, and somewhat fleshy, measuring 12-24 inches (30-60 cm) in length.

Growth Habit: Amaryllis grows from a large bulb, which can be planted in the ground or in containers. The plant is a perennial, and its bulb can last for several years with proper care.

Size: A mature amaryllis plant can reach a height of 45-60 cm (18-24 inches), with some varieties growing even taller.

Flowers: Amaryllis flowers are large, trumpet-shaped, and come in various colors, including red, pink, white, orange, and multicolored. The flowers are borne on tall, sturdy stalks and typically have 3-6 blooms per stalk.

Blooming Season: The blooming season for amaryllis varies depending on the variety and growing conditions. In general, amaryllis blooms in late winter or early spring when grown indoors as a potted plant. Outdoor amaryllis plants usually bloom in spring or early summer.

Hardiness: Amaryllis is not frost-tolerant and is best suited for USDA hardiness zones 8-10. In colder regions, the bulbs can be grown indoors or dug up and stored over winter to be replanted the following spring.

Uses: Amaryllis plants are popular as indoor ornamentals, particularly during winter when their vibrant blooms add color to the home. They can also be grown outdoors in suitable climates, where they make striking additions to garden beds, borders, and containers.

Toxicity: All parts of the amaryllis plant, particularly the bulb, are toxic to humans and animals when ingested. The plant contains alkaloids that can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and other symptoms if consumed. Keep amaryllis plants out of reach of children and pets.

Guide Information

Hardiness 8 - 10
Climate Zones 8, 13, 15, 16, 17, 21, 22, 23, 24, H1, H2
Plant Type Bulbs
Genus Hippeastrum
Exposure Full Sun, Partial Sun
Season of Interest Spring (Early, Mid, Late)
Summer (Early, Mid, Late)
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low
Water Needs Average
Soil Type Sand
Soil pH Acid, Alkaline, Neutral
Soil Drainage Moist but Well-Drained, Well-Drained
Characteristics Showy
Tolerance Deer
Landscaping Ideas Patio And Containers, Beds And Borders
Amaryllis ‘Apple Blossom’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Brazza’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Elvas’ (Hippeastrum)

Selecting Amaryllis Bulbs

Selecting high-quality amaryllis bulbs is essential for successful growth and beautiful blooms. Here are some tips to help you choose the best Amaryllis bulbs:

Size: Larger bulbs generally produce more stalks and flowers. Look for bulbs with a circumference of at least 4-5 inches (10-12 cm) for the best results. Some jumbo-sized bulbs may have a circumference of 5.5 inches (14 cm) or more and can produce multiple flower stalks.

Firmness: Healthy amaryllis bulbs should be firm and solid when gently squeezed. Avoid bulbs that feel soft, mushy, or have visible signs of rot, as these are likely unhealthy and may not grow well.

Dryness: The outer skin of the bulb should be dry and free of mold or mildew. Bulbs with damp or moldy skin can indicate poor storage conditions and potential health issues.

Intact Basal Plate: The basal plate, the flat part of the bulb where the roots emerge, should be intact and not damaged. A healthy basal plate is essential for proper root development and growth.

No Visible Pests or Diseases: Inspect the bulb for any signs of pests or diseases, such as holes, discoloration, or unusual markings. A healthy bulb should be free of these issues.

Variety: Amaryllis comes in various colors, flower shapes, and sizes. Choose a variety that appeals to you and suits your intended use, whether you plan to grow the plant indoors or outdoors. Find the perfect Amaryllis.

Purchase from Reputable Sources: Buy your Amaryllis bulbs from a trusted nursery, garden center, or online retailer to ensure they are of good quality and have been stored properly.

Once you have selected your Amaryllis bulbs, plant them as soon as possible, following the appropriate planting instructions for your chosen growing method (in the ground, in containers, or forcing indoors). By choosing healthy, high-quality bulbs and providing proper care, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying the stunning blooms of amaryllis.

Amaryllis ‘Exotic Star’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Splash’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Terra Mystica’ (Hippeastrum)

Planting Amaryllis Bulbs

Planting amaryllis bulbs is relatively easy, and with proper care, they can reward you with beautiful blooms for years to come. Here’s a step-by-step guide to planting Amaryllis bulbs:

Prepare the pot: Choose a pot with drainage holes that is about 1-2 inches larger in diameter (2-5 cm) than the bulb. Amaryllis bulbs prefer to be snug in their pots. Fill the bottom of the pot with a well-draining potting mix, such as a mix specifically designed for bulbs or a mix of equal parts peat, perlite, and loam.

Plant the bulb: Place the amaryllis bulb in the pot with the pointed end facing upwards. Spread the roots evenly over the potting mix. Fill in around the bulb with additional potting mix, leaving the top third of the bulb exposed above the soil line. Press the soil gently around the bulb to eliminate air pockets.

Water sparingly: Water the potting mix thoroughly, allowing the excess water to drain out of the bottom of the pot. Avoid overwatering, as this can cause the bulb to rot. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.

Provide light and warmth: Place the potted amaryllis bulb in a warm, sunny location with bright, indirect light. A temperature range of 65-75°F (18-24°C) is ideal for encouraging growth. Rotate the pot regularly to ensure even growth and prevent the flower stalk from leaning toward the light.

Amaryllis Care during the Active Growth Phase

Light: Amaryllis plants thrive in bright, indirect light. Place them near a sunny window, but avoid direct sunlight, as this can scorch the leaves.

Temperature: Amaryllis plants prefer temperatures between 65-75°F (18-24°C) during their active growth phase.

Watering: Water your amaryllis when the top inch of the soil feels dry. Be careful not to overwater, as this can cause bulb rot. It’s better to err on the side of slightly dry than too wet.

Fertilizing: Feed your amaryllis with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-4 weeks during the active growth phase. Follow the fertilizer package instructions for proper dilution.

When blooming: Move your Amaryllis out of direct sunlight when the flower buds have begun to open.

After-Flowering Care

After your Amaryllis plant has finished flowering, providing the proper care to help it store energy for the next blooming season is essential. Here’s what you should do during the after-flowering care stage:

Remove spent flowers: As the flowers fade, carefully cut off the flower stalks about 1-2 inches (2-5 cm) above the bulb. Be sure not to damage the leaves, as they are essential for the plant’s energy production.

Provide light and water: Place your Amaryllis in a bright, indirect light location and continue to water the plant when the top inch of soil feels dry. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so letting the soil dry out slightly between waterings is crucial.

Fertilize: Feed your amaryllis with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-4 weeks during the active growth phase. Follow the instructions on the fertilizer package for proper dilution.

Rotate the pot: To encourage even growth and prevent the leaves from leaning toward the light source, rotate the pot regularly.

Keep an eye on temperature: Amaryllis plants prefer temperatures between 65-75°F (18-24°C) during their active growth phase. Avoid placing the plant near cold drafts or heat vents.

Prepare for dormancy: After 8-10 weeks of active growth, your amaryllis will need to go through a period of dormancy to prepare for the next blooming cycle. Gradually reduce watering and allow the leaves to die back naturally. Once the leaves have yellowed and withered, trim them off.

Store the bulb: Place the potted amaryllis in a cool, dark location with temperatures between 50-60°F (10-15°C) for 8-10 weeks. A basement or closet can work well. Do not water or fertilize during this time.

Restart the growth cycle: After the dormancy period, bring the amaryllis back into a warm, sunny location and begin watering sparingly. New growth should emerge within a few weeks, and the plant will start its active growth phase again.

By providing proper care after flowering, your amaryllis plant will have the energy it needs to produce beautiful blooms in the next blooming season.

Amaryllis ‘Nymph’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Rembrandt van Rijn’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Sweet Lilian’ (Hippeastrum)

Growing Amaryllis Outdoors

Amaryllis plants can be grown outdoors in regions with mild climates, usually USDA Hardiness Zones 8-10. When grown outdoors, amaryllis plants can become naturalized in the landscape and bloom every year. Here are some steps to follow when growing amaryllis outdoors:

Choose the right location: Amaryllis plants prefer well-draining soil and a location with bright, indirect light or dappled shade. Avoid planting them in areas with standing water or heavy clay soil, as this can lead to bulb rot.

Prepare the soil: Amend the soil with organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to improve drainage and fertility. Consider adding coarse sand or fine gravel to the mix if your soil is heavy or clay-like.

Plant the bulbs: Plant amaryllis bulbs in the fall, about 6-8 weeks before the first expected frost in your area. Dig a hole deep enough so that the top third of the bulb will be above the soil line. Space the bulbs about 12-15 inches (30-37 cm) apart to give them room to grow.

Water the bulbs: After planting, water the bulbs thoroughly to help them settle into the soil. Water regularly during the growing season, but be careful not to overwater, as this can lead to bulb rot. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.

Fertilize: Feed your outdoor amaryllis plants with a balanced slow-release fertilizer or a liquid fertilizer diluted according to the package instructions. Fertilize every 4-6 weeks during the growing season to promote healthy growth and blooms.

Mulch: Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or compost, around the base of the plants to help conserve moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.

Winter protection: In colder climates, you may need to provide some winter protection for your amaryllis plants. In USDA Zones 7 or lower, consider digging up the bulbs in the fall, storing them in a cool, dark location, and then replanting them in the spring after the danger of frost has passed.

By following these steps, you can successfully grow amaryllis plants outdoors and enjoy their beautiful blooms in your garden each year.

Amaryllis ‘Blossom Peacock’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Charisma’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Clown’ (Hippeastrum)

How to Get Amaryllis to Re-Bloom

Getting amaryllis to re-bloom requires providing proper care during both the active growth phase and the dormancy period. Follow these steps to encourage your amaryllis to produce beautiful blooms year after year:

Post-blooming care: After the plant has finished flowering, cut off the flower stalks about 1-2 inches above the bulb, leaving the leaves intact. These leaves will help the plant produce energy for the next blooming cycle.

Provide light and water: Place your amaryllis in a bright, indirect light location, and continue to water the plant when the top inch of soil feels dry. Be cautious not to overwater, as this can lead to bulb rot.

Fertilize: Feed your amaryllis with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-4 weeks during the active growth phase. Follow the instructions on the fertilizer package for proper dilution.

Encourage dormancy: Approximately 8-10 weeks after the plant has finished blooming, gradually reduce watering to encourage dormancy. Allow the leaves to die back naturally. Once the leaves have yellowed and withered, trim them off.

Store the bulb: Move the potted amaryllis to a cool, dark location with temperatures between 50-60°F (10-15°C) for 8-10 weeks. Do not water or fertilize during this time.

Restart the growth cycle: After the dormancy period, bring the amaryllis back into a warm, sunny location and begin watering sparingly. New growth should emerge within a few weeks, and the plant will start its active growth phase again, eventually producing blooms.

By providing proper care and ensuring the plant goes through a dormancy period, you can encourage your amaryllis to re-bloom year after year. Remember that patience is key, as the process from dormancy to flowering can take anywhere from 6 to 12 weeks or even longer.

Repotting Amaryllis

Amaryllis plants generally don’t need to be repotted very often, as they prefer to be somewhat root-bound. However, it may become necessary to repot your amaryllis every 2-3 years or when you notice that the pot has become too small to support the plant’s growth. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to repot your amaryllis:

Choose the right time: The best time to repot an amaryllis is after its dormancy period, just before the new growth starts. This usually occurs after 8-10 weeks of dormancy.

Prepare the new pot: Select a pot that is only 1-2 inches (2-5 cm) larger in diameter than the current pot. Make sure the new pot has drainage holes, and partially fill it with a well-draining potting mix, such as a mix specifically designed for bulbs or a mix of equal parts peat, perlite, and loam.

Remove the plant: Carefully remove the amaryllis from its current pot. You may need to loosen the soil around the edges of the pot with a trowel or your fingers. Gently lift the plant out, making sure not to damage the roots or the bulb.

Inspect the roots and bulb: Examine the bulb and roots for any signs of rot, disease, or pests. If you find any damaged or rotten roots, trim them away with a clean, sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears. If the bulb appears in poor health, discarding it and starting with a new one may be best.

Divide offsets, if necessary: If your amaryllis has produced offset bulbs, you can separate them from the mother bulb at this point. Gently pull or cut the offsets away, taking care not to damage the roots.

Repot the amaryllis: Place the amaryllis bulb in the new pot, with the roots spread out evenly over the potting mix. Fill in around the bulb with additional potting mix, leaving the top third of the bulb exposed above the soil line. Press the soil gently around the bulb to eliminate air pockets.

Water the plant: Water the newly potted amaryllis thoroughly, allowing the excess water to drain out of the bottom of the pot. Be cautious not to overwater.

Provide proper care: Place the repotted amaryllis in a warm, sunny location with bright, indirect light, and continue to provide appropriate care during the active growth phase. This includes watering sparingly, fertilizing, and rotating the pot regularly for even growth.

By repotting your amaryllis when necessary, you can ensure that the plant remains healthy and continues producing beautiful blooms for years.

Amaryllis ‘Evergreen’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Exotica’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Gervase’ (Hippeastrum)

How to Propagate

Amaryllis can be propagated through two main methods: bulb offsets and seeds. Here’s a brief overview of both methods:

Propagation by bulb offsets (also known as “pups” or “daughter bulbs”)

This is the easiest and most common method for propagating amaryllis, resulting in genetically identical plants to the parent.

  • Allow offsets to develop: Over time, the amaryllis will produce offsets around the base of the mother bulb. Let the offsets grow until they reach about one-third the size of the parent bulb, or at least 1-2 inches in diameter.
  • Remove offsets: Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently separate the offsets from the mother bulb. You may need to use a clean, sharp knife to cut them away if they are firmly attached.
  • Pot the offsets: Plant each offset in its own pot with a well-draining potting mix, leaving the top third of the bulb exposed. Use a pot that is just slightly larger than the offset to encourage growth.
  • Provide proper care: Place the newly potted offsets in a warm, bright location with indirect sunlight and water sparingly until new growth emerges. Gradually increase watering as the plant grows. Fertilize with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-4 weeks during the active growth phase.
Propagation by seeds

Growing amaryllis from seeds can be more challenging and time-consuming, as the resulting plants may not be identical to the parent plant due to genetic variation.

  • Collect seeds: After the amaryllis flowers are pollinated, they will produce seed pods. Allow the seed pods to mature and turn brown, then harvest them just before they split open. Inside the pods, you’ll find thin, papery seeds.
  • Prepare the seeds: Soak the seeds in water for a few hours to help them absorb moisture and promote germination.
  • Sow the seeds: Fill a seed tray or shallow container with a well-draining seed-starting mix. Place the seeds on the surface of the mix and gently press them down, but do not cover them with soil. Light is required for germination.
  • Maintain moisture and warmth: Water the seeds gently to moisten the soil, and cover the container with plastic wrap or a clear plastic dome to maintain humidity. Place the container in a warm location with indirect sunlight. Maintain a consistent temperature between 70-75°F (21-24°C).
  • Monitor germination: Amaryllis seeds generally take 3-6 weeks to germinate. Once the seeds have sprouted, remove the plastic cover and continue to provide moisture and light.
  • Transplant seedlings: When the seedlings have developed 2-3 leaves, carefully transplant them into individual pots containing a well-draining potting mix. Provide proper care as you would for a mature amaryllis plant.

Keep in mind that amaryllis plants grown from seeds may take 3-5 years to reach maturity and produce flowers. Patience is necessary when propagating amaryllis by seeds.

Amaryllis ‘Magic Green’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Magnum’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Rio Negro’ (Hippeastrum)

Pests and Diseases

Amaryllis plants are generally low-maintenance and relatively pest and disease-resistant. However, there are a few common pests and diseases that can affect them. Here’s a brief overview of the most common issues and how to address them:

Aphids: These tiny insects can be found on the leaves and flower buds, sucking plant sap and potentially spreading plant viruses. To control aphids, you can wash them off with a strong stream of water or use insecticidal soap or neem oil according to the product’s instructions.

Spider mites: These tiny pests are difficult to see with the naked eye and can cause stippling or yellowing of the leaves. They thrive in hot, dry conditions, so ensure your plant has proper humidity levels. Control spider mites by washing them off with water or using a miticide, insecticidal soap, or neem oil as directed.

Mealybugs: These small, white, cottony insects can be found on the leaves, stems, and bulbs of amaryllis plants. They suck plant sap, weakening the plant and potentially causing leaf yellowing or distortion. Control mealybugs by wiping them off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or using insecticidal soap or neem oil according to the product’s instructions.

Red blotch (Stagonospora curtisii): This fungal disease causes red, elongated lesions on leaves, flower stalks, and bulbs. It can lead to bulb rot if not addressed. To prevent red blotch, ensure proper air circulation around the plant and avoid overwatering. If you notice symptoms, remove and discard affected plant parts and treat them with a fungicide labeled for red blotch.

Root and bulb rot: Overwatering can cause the roots and bulbs to rot, which is often characterized by a foul smell and mushy, discolored bulbs or roots. To prevent this issue, use well-draining soil, and avoid overwatering. If you suspect rot, remove the plant from the pot, trim away any rotten roots or bulb tissue, and repot in fresh, well-draining soil.

Leaf spot diseases: Various fungi can cause leaf spots on amaryllis plants. To prevent and manage leaf spot diseases, ensure proper air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and remove and discard affected leaves. If the problem persists, treat it with a fungicide labeled for the specific leaf spot disease affecting your plant.

By monitoring your amaryllis plant for signs of pests and diseases and addressing any issues promptly, you can help ensure the health and vitality of your plant.

Click here to compare all Amaryllis varieties

Amaryllis ‘Samba’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Spartacus’ (Hippeastrum)
Amaryllis ‘Splash’ (Hippeastrum)

Discover These Helpful Guides for Further Reading

Fascinating Cybister and Exotic Amaryllis
Glamorous Large-Flowering Amaryllis
Sumptuous Double-Flowering Amaryllis

Frequently Asked Questions

What do you do with amaryllis after it blooms?

After your amaryllis has finished blooming, follow these steps:

  • 1. Cut off the flower stalks about 1-2 inches above the bulb, leaving the leaves intact.
  • 2. Move the plant to a bright, indirect light location and continue to water it when the top inch of soil feels dry.
  • 3. Fertilize with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-4 weeks during the active growth phase.
  • 4. Encourage dormancy approximately 8-10 weeks after blooming by gradually reducing watering and allowing the leaves to die back naturally.
  • 5. Store the bulb in a cool, dark location with temperatures between 50-60°F (10-15°C) for 8-10 weeks. Do not water or fertilize during this time.

Does amaryllis come back every year?

Yes, amaryllis can come back every year if provided with proper care and a period of dormancy.

How many times a year will amaryllis bloom?

Amaryllis typically blooms once a year, usually during the winter or early spring months. However, with proper care and timing, some amaryllis plants may be coaxed into blooming twice a year, though this is less common.

How do I keep my amaryllis bulb for next year?

To keep your amaryllis bulb for next year, follow these steps:

  • 1. After the plant has bloomed, provide proper post-blooming care, including cutting off the flower stalks, watering, and fertilizing.
  • 2. Encourage dormancy by reducing watering and allowing the leaves to die back. 3
  • 3. Store the bulb in a cool, dark location for 8-10 weeks during dormancy. 4
  • 4. After the dormancy period, bring the amaryllis back into a warm, sunny location and begin watering sparingly. New growth should emerge within a few weeks, and the plant will start its active growth phase again, eventually producing blooms.
Compare All Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)
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While every effort has been made to describe these plants accurately, please keep in mind that height, bloom time, and color may differ in various climates. The description of these plants has been written based on numerous outside resources.

Guide Information

Hardiness 8 - 10
Climate Zones 8, 13, 15, 16, 17, 21, 22, 23, 24, H1, H2
Plant Type Bulbs
Genus Hippeastrum
Exposure Full Sun, Partial Sun
Season of Interest Spring (Early, Mid, Late)
Summer (Early, Mid, Late)
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low
Water Needs Average
Soil Type Sand
Soil pH Acid, Alkaline, Neutral
Soil Drainage Moist but Well-Drained, Well-Drained
Characteristics Showy
Tolerance Deer
Landscaping Ideas Patio And Containers, Beds And Borders
Compare All Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)
Compare Now

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