While many gardeners grow lavender from seeds, propagating lavender from cuttings is often quicker and more reliable.
Lavender (Lavandula) is a beautiful, fragrant herb that adds charm and fragrance to any garden. You can easily propagate lavender, cultivating more of this delightful plant and contributing to stunning lavender fields, where rows of purple blooms create breathtaking landscapes that stretch as far as the eye can see.
While many gardeners grow lavender from seeds, propagating lavender from cuttings is often quicker and more reliable. In this comprehensive guide, you will learn how to propagate lavender, whether from seeds, cuttings, layering, or division, and the benefits and challenges of each method.
Growing lavender from seeds is the slowest method of propagation, but it can be rewarding for patient gardeners who want to cultivate new plants from the very beginning. Here’s how to grow lavender from seeds:
Choosing the Seeds: Choose seeds from reputable suppliers, selecting the lavender variety that suits your climate and needs. English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is commonly grown from seeds and is known for its hardiness.
Stratifying Seeds: Lavender seeds have a long germination period, and they benefit from stratification, a process that simulates winter conditions. To stratify seeds, place them in a damp paper towel inside a sealed plastic bag, then store them in the refrigerator for 3–4 weeks. This breaks seed dormancy and improves germination rates.
Sowing the Seeds: After stratification, plant the seeds in seed-starting trays filled with a light, well-draining seed-starting mix. Scatter the seeds over the soil surface, pressing them lightly into the soil without covering them, as lavender seeds require light to germinate.
Providing Light and Warmth: Place the seed trays in a bright, sunny location or under grow lights. The seeds need 12–16 hours of light daily and consistent warmth between 65–75°F (18–24°C). A heating mat can help maintain optimal temperatures for germination.
Watering: Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Mist the surface regularly or water gently to avoid disturbing the seeds. Germination can take 2–4 weeks, though some seeds may take up to 6 weeks to sprout.
Transplanting: Once the seedlings have a few sets of true leaves and are large enough to handle, transplant them into individual pots. Harden off the seedlings before transplanting them outdoors, and plant them in a sunny location with well-drained soil.
Lavandula angustifolia ‘Munstead’ (English Lavender)
Propagating lavender from cuttings is the most common and reliable method. It produces plants identical to the parent plant and allows you to quickly grow new lavender without waiting for seeds to germinate. You can take softwood cuttings in spring or semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer.
Selecting Cuttings: Choose healthy, non-flowering shoots from the current season’s growth. For softwood cuttings, take 3-4 inch (8-10 cm) cuttings in spring when the new growth is soft and pliable. For semi-hardwood cuttings, take 4-6 inch (10-15 cm) cuttings in late summer when the growth has hardened slightly but is not fully woody.
Preparing the Cuttings: Strip the lower leaves from the bottom half of the cutting, leaving only a few sets of leaves at the top. This prevents the cutting from losing too much moisture.
Using Rooting Hormone: Dip the cut end of the lavender cutting in rooting hormone powder or gel. This step is optional but can encourage faster root development and improve the success rate.
Planting the Cuttings: Fill small pots or trays with a well-draining propagation mix, such as a combination of peat moss and perlite. Stick the prepared cuttings into the soil, burying them about halfway. Firm the soil gently around the base to ensure good contact between the cutting and the soil.
Creating a Humid Environment: To maintain humidity around the cuttings, cover the pots with a plastic bag or place them in a mini greenhouse. Make sure the cuttings get indirect light but avoid direct sunlight, as too much heat can cause them to wilt.
Watering: Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water the cuttings lightly whenever the top of the soil feels dry. After a few weeks, you should notice new growth, indicating that the cuttings have developed roots.
Transplanting: Once the cuttings have rooted, which usually takes 4-6 weeks, transplant them into individual pots and gradually acclimate them to outdoor conditions before planting them in the garden.
Lavandula stoechas ‘Anouk’ (Spanish Lavender)
Layering is a simple propagation technique that allows new plants to form from a branch that is still attached to the parent plant. This method is particularly effective with larger lavender plants.
Select a Branch: Choose a low-growing, healthy branch from the lavender plant that can be bent down to the ground without breaking.
Prepare the Ground: Loosen the soil where the branch will touch the ground. If necessary, amend it with compost or sand to ensure good drainage.
Bury the Branch: Make a small cut or scrape the underside of the branch where it will touch the soil. This helps stimulate root growth. Bury that portion of the branch in the prepared soil, securing it with a small rock or garden staple to keep it in place. Leave the tip of the branch exposed above the soil.
Watering and Monitoring: Keep the buried section of the branch lightly watered to encourage root development. After a few months, the buried section should have developed roots.
Separating and Transplanting: Once the branch has rooted, cut it away from the parent plant and transplant it to its desired location in the garden.
Lavandula dentata (French Lavender)
Dividing lavender plants is less common because lavender tends to have a woody base, which can make division difficult. However, it is possible with young lavender plants or certain varieties that grow in clumps.
Select a Young Plant: Division works best with younger plants that have not yet developed a large woody base. Established plants can be difficult to divide due to their woody nature.
Digging Up the Plant: Carefully dig up the entire lavender plant, being sure to avoid damaging the roots.
Dividing the Root Ball: Using a sharp knife or spade, divide the root ball into sections, making sure each section has several healthy shoots and roots attached.
Replanting: Replant the divisions in well-drained soil, spacing them appropriately in the garden. Water the divisions lightly to help them establish.
Lavender and Santolina – The Perfect Xeriscape Duo
The easiest way to propagate lavender is by taking softwood cuttings in spring or early summer. Softwood cuttings root more quickly and reliably than seeds or hardwood cuttings, and the new plants will be identical to the parent plant.
The best time to take lavender cuttings is from late spring to early summer when the plant is actively growing. You can also take semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer or early fall, but softwood cuttings in spring typically root faster.
Yes, you can plant lavender cuttings directly in the ground, but it’s generally more successful to start them in pots or trays with well-draining soil to monitor their rooting progress. Direct planting requires careful attention to watering and soil conditions to avoid failure.
Lavender cuttings may fail to root due to overwatering, poor drainage, insufficient humidity, or inadequate light. Rooting may also fail if the cuttings are taken from overly woody parts of the plant or if the soil is too wet, leading to rot.
Lavender generally roots better in soil than in water. Lavender is adapted to dry conditions, and cuttings rooted in soil have a higher success rate. Soil provides better support for the cuttings and prevents rot, which can happen in water.
Lavender cuttings can take 2-4 weeks to root in water, but this method is less reliable than rooting in soil. Rooting in water may also produce weaker roots, so soil propagation is generally preferred for stronger, healthier plants.
Hardiness |
5 - 11 |
---|---|
Plant Type | Shrubs |
Plant Family | Lamiaceae |
Genus | Lavandula |
Exposure | Full Sun |
Season of Interest | Spring (Late), Summer (Early, Mid, Late), |
Maintenance | Average |
Water Needs | Low |
Soil Type | Chalk, Loam, Sand |
Soil pH | Acid, Alkaline, Neutral |
Soil Drainage | Well-Drained |
Characteristics | Showy, Dried Arrangements, Cut Flowers, Fragrant, Evergreen |
Tolerance | Deer, Rabbit, Drought, Dry Soil, Rocky Soil |
Attracts | Bees |
Landscaping Ideas | Beds And Borders, Patio And Containers |
Hardiness |
5 - 11 |
---|---|
Plant Type | Shrubs |
Plant Family | Lamiaceae |
Genus | Lavandula |
Exposure | Full Sun |
Season of Interest | Spring (Late), Summer (Early, Mid, Late), |
Maintenance | Average |
Water Needs | Low |
Soil Type | Chalk, Loam, Sand |
Soil pH | Acid, Alkaline, Neutral |
Soil Drainage | Well-Drained |
Characteristics | Showy, Dried Arrangements, Cut Flowers, Fragrant, Evergreen |
Tolerance | Deer, Rabbit, Drought, Dry Soil, Rocky Soil |
Attracts | Bees |
Landscaping Ideas | Beds And Borders, Patio And Containers |
Create a membership account to save your garden designs and to view them on any device.
Becoming a contributing member of Gardenia is easy and can be done in just a few minutes. If you provide us with your name, email address and the payment of a modest $25 annual membership fee, you will become a full member, enabling you to design and save up to 25 of your garden design ideas.
Join now and start creating your dream garden!
Create a membership account to save your garden designs and to view them on any device.
Becoming a contributing member of Gardenia is easy and can be done in just a few minutes. If you provide us with your name, email address and the payment of a modest $25 annual membership fee, you will become a full member, enabling you to design and save up to 25 of your garden design ideas.
Join now and start creating your dream garden!