How deep should you plant lily bulbs? The answer depends on bulb size, rooting habit, soil, and lily type. Learn the correct planting depth and spacing for Asiatic, Oriental, Orienpet, Trumpet, Martagon, tiger, Madonna, and species lilies, plus why stem-rooting and basal-rooting lilies require different treatment.
How deep should you plant a lily bulb? There is no single measurement that works for every lily. The correct planting depth depends on the size of the bulb, how the lily produces roots, the soil, and the particular species or hybrid you are growing.
True lilies in the genus Lilium grow from fleshy, scale-covered bulbs, but they do not all root in exactly the same way. Some produce roots mainly from the base of the bulb. Others also develop roots from the underground portion of the stem and are normally planted more deeply. Small species bulbs need a different approach from large hybrid bulbs, while Lilium candidum, the Madonna lily, is the famous shallow-planted exception.
Spacing matters too. Plant lilies too close together and established clumps can eventually become crowded. Space them too widely and you may lose the bold garden effect that makes lilies so striking. The goal is to give bulbs enough room for roots, stems, offsets, and air circulation while still creating a generous display.
| Lily Type | Planting Approach | Spacing Guide |
|---|---|---|
| Basal-rooting lilies | RHS recommends planting at a depth equal to the height of the bulb | About 6 in. (15 cm) minimum, or roughly 3 times the bulb diameter |
| Stem-rooting lilies | Plant more deeply – roughly 2.5 times the height of the bulb | About 6 in. (15 cm) minimum, with more room for vigorous plants |
| Large lily bulbs | NALS recommends about 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) of soil over larger bulbs | Allow generous spacing, especially in permanent plantings |
| Small species bulbs | Some, such as L. pumilum, are planted about 3 in. (8 cm) deep | About 4-6 in. (10-15 cm), depending on species |
| Lilium candidum | Very shallow – keep the nose close to the surface, with about 1 in. (2.5-3 cm) of settled soil above the bulb | 8-10 in. (20-25 cm) |
| Rhizomatous lilies such as L. pardalinum | About 4 in. (10 cm) deep | About 12 in. (30 cm) apart to allow spreading |
The practical rule: Do not plant every lily to the same fixed depth. Start with bulb size and rooting habit, then check whether the species has a special requirement. Soil conditions matter too, particularly drainage.
The familiar advice to plant bulbs two or three times their height is useful for many flowering bulbs, but lilies deserve a more precise approach. Lily bulbs vary enormously in size and, more importantly, in how their roots develop.
Some lilies are basal-rooting. Their permanent roots develop from the basal plate at the bottom of the bulb. Asiatic lilies are the example specifically used by RHS for this rooting type.
Other lilies are stem-rooting. These produce roots from the base of the bulb and additional seasonal roots from the underground portion of the stem immediately above it. Tiger lily, Lilium lancifolium, and Lilium longiflorum are examples. These lilies need sufficient soil around the buried stem for those additional roots to develop.
Bulb size is another reason fixed measurements can be misleading. A small wild-lily bulb and a large mature hybrid bulb should not automatically receive the same amount of soil cover.
Check how planting depth is being measured. Recommendations are not always expressed in the same way. RHS describes planting depth relative to the height of the bulb, while North American Lily Society guidance specifies about 3-4 in. (7-10 cm) of soil over small bulbs and 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) over larger bulbs. Read the measurement carefully before comparing recommendations.
The distinction between basal-rooting and stem-rooting lilies explains why two healthy lily bulbs may legitimately require different planting depths.
RHS recommends planting basal-rooting lilies, and lilies whose rooting type is unknown, at a depth equal to the height of the bulb. In light sandy soil, they can be planted slightly deeper.
Stem-rooting lilies are planted more deeply, at roughly two-and-a-half times the height of the bulb. This provides the underground stem with the soil volume it needs to develop temporary stem roots during active growth.
The North American Lily Society provides another useful benchmark based on bulb size, recommending about 3-4 in. (7-10 cm) of soil over smaller bulbs and about 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) over larger ones.
These recommendations should not be forced into a single mathematical rule. They come from slightly different systems of describing planting depth. What they agree on is more important: large bulbs and stem-rooting lilies generally need more depth than small bulbs and basal-rooting types, while a few species have their own requirements.
Asiatic lilies are among the easiest and most adaptable lilies to grow. RHS specifically uses Asiatic hybrids as an example of lilies that root from the base of the bulb only.
That means there is no need to bury every Asiatic bulb at the old fixed recommendation of 8 in. (20 cm). Instead, follow the basal-rooting guidance and take the size of the bulb into account. Slightly deeper planting is suitable in light sandy soil.
For Asiatic lilies:
Asiatic lilies can multiply into increasingly substantial clumps, so generous spacing is especially useful in permanent plantings.
Oriental lilies and Orienpet lilies often produce substantial bulbs and strong flowering stems. Rather than assigning every Oriental or Orienpet cultivar one fixed planting depth, use the size of the bulb and, where known, the rooting habit of the particular lily as your guide.
North American Lily Society guidance provides a useful practical benchmark for larger lily bulbs: about 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) of soil above the bulb. Where a lily is known to produce roots from the underground stem above the bulb, sufficient depth should be allowed for those stem roots to develop.
As a practical guide for Oriental and Orienpet lilies:
Good drainage matters more than achieving an exact measurement to the nearest inch. Oriental and Orienpet bulbs should never sit in persistently waterlogged soil. If the site remains wet, improve the drainage, use a raised bed, or grow the lilies in containers rather than simply planting the bulbs more deeply.
A useful benchmark: For a large Oriental or Orienpet bulb, about 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) of soil above the bulb is a practical starting point. Adjust for the bulb itself rather than assuming every cultivar has identical requirements.
Trumpet and Aurelian lilies include some of the tallest and most dramatic garden lilies. Mature plants can carry large clusters of fragrant flowers on substantial stems, so both planting depth and spacing deserve attention.
For a large Trumpet lily bulb, the North American Lily Society benchmark of about 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) of soil above a larger bulb provides a useful starting point. The bulb’s size and rooting habit should still be considered.
Give vigorous Trumpet lilies approximately 12-18 in. (30-45 cm) of space where possible, particularly when they will remain in place for several years. Closer planting creates an immediate massed display, while generous spacing gives large bulbs more room to increase.
Very tall lilies may eventually need support. If staking will be necessary, positioning the support while you still know exactly where the bulb lies reduces the risk of damaging it later.
Tiger lilies, most commonly Lilium lancifolium, are useful examples of stem-rooting lilies. They produce roots from the bulb’s base as well as from the underground section of stem above the bulb.
For tiger lilies:
Tiger lilies are vigorous and can multiply through bulbs and bulbils, so a little extra room at planting can reduce overcrowding later.
Martagon lilies deserve thoughtful planting because they can be slow to settle after planting or transplanting and are best left undisturbed once established.
Rather than forcing every Martagon bulb into one exact measurement, take bulb size and any species- or cultivar-specific instructions into account. A medium or large bulb needs adequate soil cover, but excellent drainage remains essential.
Site choice may matter even more than an extra inch of planting depth. Martagons are among the lilies most comfortable in light or dappled shade and generally perform well in humus-rich, well-drained soil.
For Martagon lilies:
The usual lily planting rules change dramatically for Lilium candidum, the Madonna lily.
This historic Mediterranean species should be planted very shallowly. RHS recommends keeping the nose or point of the bulb close to the soil surface, while the North American Lily Society advises no more than about 1 in. (2.5 cm) of settled soil above it. Space the bulbs approximately 8-10 in. (20-25 cm) apart.
This is not simply a small adjustment to the normal lily rule. Burying Madonna lily bulbs at the depth often used for a large Oriental, Trumpet, or stem-rooting lily can impair their performance.
Remember this exception: Keep Lilium candidum close to the soil surface, with only about 1 in. (2.5-3 cm) of settled soil over the bulb. Do not bury it like a large stem-rooting lily.
Species lilies are far too diverse for one universal planting-depth rule. The group includes tiny and large bulbs, basal-rooting and stem-rooting species, and even lilies with rhizomatous underground growth.
RHS recommends planting small-bulbed Lilium pumilum about 3 in. (8 cm) deep and approximately 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) apart.
At the other end of the spectrum, species such as Lilium formosanum var. pricei, Lilium lancifolium, and Lilium longiflorum can produce stem roots and therefore require the deeper stem-rooting approach.
Rhizomatous lilies are different again. RHS recommends planting Lilium pardalinum and its hybrids about 4 in. (10 cm) deep and 12 in. (30 cm) apart because their underground growth spreads horizontally.
This diversity is why “species lily” is not a planting instruction. If you are growing an unusual wild lily, check that particular species rather than borrowing the depth from an unrelated hybrid.
Spacing recommendations vary because the ideal distance depends on bulb size, cultivar vigor, garden design, and how long the planting will remain undisturbed.
RHS recommends spacing lily bulbs about 6 in. (15 cm), or roughly three times the diameter of the bulb, apart. This is a useful general starting point, but it is not a command to plant every lily exactly 6 in. from its neighbor. Small species may have their own recommendations, while large, vigorous lilies can benefit from more room.
As a practical spacing guide:
Closer planting creates an impressive display quickly, while wider spacing gives bulbs more room to multiply before the clump needs attention. Think about what the planting will look like in three or four years, not just on planting day.
From a design perspective, lilies usually look better when several bulbs of the same cultivar are grouped together rather than scattered individually through a border.
Three bulbs can form an attractive group, while five or more produce a much stronger display where space allows. Position the bulbs informally rather than in a rigid straight line so the resulting stems look integrated with the rest of the planting.
If you are combining several lily cultivars, consider height and flowering time as well as color. Randomly mixing a compact early Asiatic lily with a towering late Orienpet can create a disconnected effect. Repeating individual cultivars in separate groups usually creates a more coherent planting while still allowing different lilies to extend the flowering season.
For ideas on plants that grow well alongside lilies, see Gardenia’s Great Companion Plants for Lilies.
Yes, but drainage matters more than being an inch or two away from a theoretical perfect depth.
RHS advises planting basal-rooting lilies slightly deeper in light sandy soil. Sandy ground drains rapidly and generally remains well aerated, so the bulb can tolerate a little more depth.
Heavy clay presents the opposite problem. Lilies do not perform well in poorly drained or waterlogged soil because their bulbs and roots are vulnerable to rot. Simply burying a bulb deeper in compacted clay may place it in an even wetter and less aerated layer.
If your soil remains persistently wet, do not try to solve the problem by adjusting planting depth alone. Improve the root environment, use a raised bed or better-drained planting area, or grow the lilies in containers.
Do not confuse soil preparation with planting depth. You may loosen and improve soil 12-15 in. (30-37 cm) deep so roots can grow freely, but that does not mean the lily bulb belongs at the bottom of that entire prepared layer.
Once you have determined the appropriate planting depth and spacing, the actual planting process is straightforward.
If you are planting a very tall lily, consider installing its support while you can still see exactly where the bulb is located. Driving a stake blindly into an established lily clump later risks damaging the hidden bulb.
Lilies perform beautifully in pots, and containers can be especially useful where garden soil is poorly drained or unsuitable for a particular lily. See Gardenia’s Best Lilies for Pots and Containers for cultivar suggestions and detailed container-growing advice.
Choose a container deep enough for proper root development and make sure it has generous drainage holes. RHS recommends leaving about 2 in. (5 cm) between neighboring bulbs and between the bulbs and the edge of the container. As a general guide, three bulbs can be planted in a container about 14 in. (35 cm) wide.
Use the same rooting principles as in open ground: basal-rooting types generally require less depth, while stem-rooting lilies need more room above the bulb. Tall lilies also need sufficiently large, stable containers to prevent the flowering stems from making the pot top-heavy.
Containers can be especially useful for Oriental lilies where garden soil is alkaline, as a suitable acidic growing medium can be provided more easily.
Correct planting depth helps lilies develop healthy roots, remain anchored in the soil, and, in stem-rooting types, produce the additional roots that support vigorous seasonal growth. But planting depth is only one part of successful flowering.
A correctly planted lily can still fail to bloom if the bulb is immature or weakened, the site is too shady, the soil remains waterlogged, drought interrupts growth, frost damages the emerging stem, pests or disease reduce vigor, or green foliage was removed too early after flowering the previous year.
Healthy leaves but no flowers? See Gardenia’s Why Are My Lilies Not Blooming? Causes and Solutions guide to diagnose the problem.
For complete information on planting, soil, light, watering, feeding, staking, aftercare, winter care, pests, and other growing requirements, see Gardenia’s How to Grow Lilies: Complete Planting and Care Guide.
Planting depth depends on bulb size, rooting habit, and species. RHS recommends planting basal-rooting lilies at a depth equal to the height of the bulb and stem-rooting lilies at roughly two-and-a-half times the bulb’s height. Small species and Lilium candidum have different requirements.
No. Eight inches may suit some lily bulbs, but it is not a universal rule. Basal-rooting lilies, stem-rooting lilies, small species, Madonna lilies, and rhizomatous lilies can require different planting depths. Use bulb size, rooting habit, and species-specific guidance.
Basal-rooting lilies produce roots mainly from the basal plate beneath the bulb. Stem-rooting lilies also develop roots from the underground stem above the bulb. Stem-rooting lilies are therefore normally planted more deeply to provide space for these additional roots.
Lilium candidum is planted unusually shallowly. Keep the nose of the bulb close to the soil surface, with only about 1 inch, or 2.5-3 cm, of settled soil above it. Space Madonna lily bulbs approximately 8-10 inches, or 20-25 cm, apart.
RHS recommends spacing lily bulbs about 6 inches, or 15 cm, or approximately three times the diameter of the bulb. Small species may have their own requirements, while vigorous lilies and long-term plantings can be spaced more generously to allow room for bulbs to increase.
Yes. Deeper is not automatically better. Excessive depth is unnecessary for basal-rooting lilies and can be particularly unsuitable for species adapted to shallow planting. Lilium candidum is the clearest exception, and deep planting is also problematic where soil is poorly drained.
Yes. Stem-rooting lilies need enough buried stem for additional roots to develop, and shallow planting may provide less anchorage for tall stems. However, the correct depth depends on the particular lily, so do not simply plant every bulb more deeply.
Requirements vary by species. RHS recommends planting small-bulbed Lilium pumilum about 3 inches, or 8 cm, deep and approximately 4-6 inches, or 10-15 cm, apart. Other wild lilies can differ, so unusual species should be checked individually.
RHS advises that basal-rooting lilies can be planted slightly deeper in light sandy soil. Heavy or waterlogged soil is different because deeper planting may place the bulb in an even wetter layer. Improve drainage rather than relying on planting depth to solve poor soil conditions.
Use the lily’s rooting habit to determine depth in containers just as you would in the garden. Choose a deep pot with excellent drainage. RHS recommends allowing about 2 inches, or 5 cm, between bulbs and between each bulb and the edge of the container.
There is no single planting depth that is correct for every lily. Start with the bulb itself. Consider its size and, where known, whether it is basal-rooting or stem-rooting. Basal-rooting lilies are generally planted less deeply, while stem-rooting lilies need sufficient buried stem for their additional roots to develop.
Then check for exceptions. Lilium candidum belongs close to the soil surface. Small species such as Lilium pumilum are planted relatively shallowly, while rhizomatous species such as Lilium pardalinum need enough horizontal space to spread.
Spacing should reflect the future planting, not just the bulb in your hand. About 6 in. (15 cm), or roughly three times the bulb diameter, is a useful general starting point, but vigorous lilies and permanent clumps can benefit from more room. Bulbs in containers, by contrast, can be grouped much more closely for an immediate display.
Most importantly, do not let an obsession with the exact inch obscure the fundamentals. Choose healthy bulbs, understand what you are planting, provide excellent drainage, give vigorous lilies enough room, and pay attention to the few species that break the general rules. Those decisions matter more than forcing every lily into one universal planting formula.
Updated: August 2026 • Reviewed by Gardenia Editors
| Hardiness |
3 - 9 |
|---|---|
| Climate Zones | 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 |
| Plant Type | Bulbs, Perennials |
| Genus | Lilium |
| Exposure | Full Sun, Partial Sun |
| Season of Interest | Summer (Early, Mid, Late) |
| Maintenance | Low |
| Water Needs | Average |
| Soil Type | Chalk, Clay, Loam, Sand |
| Soil pH | Alkaline, Neutral |
| Soil Drainage | Moist but Well-Drained, Well-Drained |
| Characteristics | Cut Flowers, Showy |
| Landscaping Ideas | Beds And Borders, Patio And Containers |
| Garden Styles | City and Courtyard, Cutting Garden, Informal and Cottage, Traditional Garden |
| Hardiness |
3 - 9 |
|---|---|
| Climate Zones | 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 |
| Plant Type | Bulbs, Perennials |
| Genus | Lilium |
| Exposure | Full Sun, Partial Sun |
| Season of Interest | Summer (Early, Mid, Late) |
| Maintenance | Low |
| Water Needs | Average |
| Soil Type | Chalk, Clay, Loam, Sand |
| Soil pH | Alkaline, Neutral |
| Soil Drainage | Moist but Well-Drained, Well-Drained |
| Characteristics | Cut Flowers, Showy |
| Landscaping Ideas | Beds And Borders, Patio And Containers |
| Garden Styles | City and Courtyard, Cutting Garden, Informal and Cottage, Traditional Garden |
Create a membership account to save your garden designs and to view them on any device.
Becoming a contributing member of Gardenia is easy and can be done in just a few minutes. If you provide us with your name, email address and the payment of a modest $25 annual membership fee, you will become a full member, enabling you to design and save up to 25 of your garden design ideas.
Join now and start creating your dream garden!
Create a membership account to save your garden designs and to view them on any device.
Becoming a contributing member of Gardenia is easy and can be done in just a few minutes. If you provide us with your name, email address and the payment of a modest $25 annual membership fee, you will become a full member, enabling you to design and save up to 25 of your garden design ideas.
Join now and start creating your dream garden!