Schlumbergera × buckleyi (Christmas Cactus)

Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) is cherished for its striking, brightly colored flowers that bloom during the holiday season. This cactus is often grown indoors and admired for its low-maintenance care and ability to brighten up homes during the colder months.

What is a Christmas Cactus?

The Christmas Cactus is a popular houseplant prized for its vibrant, tubular flowers that bloom in winter. The plant has distinctive flattened, segmented stems that hang down gracefully, creating an elegant, cascading effect. Unlike typical cacti, it lacks sharp spines, making it friendly for household placement.

Native: The Christmas Cactus is native to the coastal mountains of Brazil, where it grows in humid tropical rainforests. It is a member of the Cactaceae family, which also includes the popular Thankgiving cactus, prickly pear (opuntia), pincushion cactus (mammillaria), and the iconic saguaro cactus and San Pedro cactus.

Growth habit: It’s an epiphytic cactus that naturally grows on trees. Its habit is pendulous, with branches hanging downward.

Size: The plant is compact and grows 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) tall and 12-24 inches (30-60 cm) wide.

Flowers: Its tubular flowers, which are pink, red, white, and purple, have a delicate, slightly ruffled appearance.

Blooming season: It blooms in late fall to early winter, with its peak flowering time often around Christmas, which is why it is commonly called the Christmas Cactus. With proper care and ideal conditions, the plant can continue to bloom into the early months of spring. The blooms last for several weeks, making the plant a long-lasting source of winter color. Explore 30 enchanting Christmas flowers and plants to add festive charm and natural beauty to your holiday celebrations.

Hardiness: Christmas cactus is hardy in USDA zones 10-12, where it can be grown outdoors in warm, tropical climates. However, it is most commonly grown as an indoor plant in cooler climates. The plant prefers temperatures between 60-70°F (15-21°C) and can be sensitive to cold drafts or temperatures below 50°F (10°C).

Award: Recipient of the prestigious Award of Garden Merit of the Royal Horticultural Society.

Uses:  It is primarily grown as an indoor ornamental plant, prized for its colorful blooms and easy care. It is commonly used as a houseplant during the holiday season, where its vibrant flowers brighten homes during the winter months. It can be grown in hanging baskets and containers or placed on shelves where its cascading stems can be displayed to full effect.

Toxicity: The Christmas Cactus is non-toxic to pets and humans, making it a safe choice for households with children, cats, or dogs. Its lack of spines and gentle nature make it an ideal houseplant for family homes.

Why Should I Grow a Christmas Cactus?

Growing a Christmas Cactus offers multiple benefits:

Long-lasting blooms: The vibrant flowers last for several weeks, providing a long period of beauty during the winter months.

Low Maintenance: Once established, it requires minimal care compared to other houseplants.

Air Purifier: Like many plants, it helps improve indoor air quality. It possesses the unique ability to absorb carbon dioxide and emit oxygen at night, a reversal of the typical daytime photosynthesis process observed in most plants.

Non-Toxic: Safe around pets and children, unlike some other popular houseplants.

Long-lived: With proper care, Christmas Cacti can live for several decades, and many are passed down through generations as family heirlooms.

Unique Appearance: Its arching segmented stems are distinct from typical cacti, making it an interesting conversational piece.

Christmas Cactus Care

Growing a Christmas Cactus successfully involves providing the right conditions and understanding its natural habits. Here’s a guide to help you grow and nurture this festive plant:

Light

Christmas Cactus prefers bright, indirect light. While it can tolerate some direct sunlight, especially in the early morning or late afternoon, too much direct sunlight can cause the leaves (or segments) to become scorched, turning red or brown. A location near an east-facing window is ideal, where the plant can receive gentle sunlight without the risk of leaf burn. If placed in a window that receives harsh afternoon sun, it’s a good idea to filter the light using sheer curtains or move the plant further away from the window.

Christmas Cactus can still grow and survive in lower light conditions, but it may not bloom as profusely. For the best flowering results, ensure the plant receives 4 to 6 hours of bright, indirect light each day.

Soil

The Christmas Cactus prefers a well-draining, airy potting mix. A standard cactus or succulent mix is a good option, though some gardeners like adding organic matter such as peat or compost to retain some moisture. Avoid heavy, compacted soils, which can lead to root rot.

Water

Water your Christmas Cactus regularly from spring to late summer, keeping the compost moist but not waterlogged. Allow any excess water to drain away, as the roots may rot if left in damp compost. During this period, ensure the plant has consistent moisture, but never let it sit in water.

The Christmas Cactus requires two rest periods of reduced watering each year to encourage flowering:

• In autumn (from mid-September until the buds start developing), reduce watering. Let the top few centimeters of compost dry out between waterings but don’t allow it to dry out completely. Once flower buds form, resume regular watering until the flowers fade, but avoid overwatering.
• After flowering, reduce watering again. During this time, let the top few centimeters of compost dry out between waterings. Once the rest period is over, return to regular watering from spring through summer.

Humidity

Christmas Cactus prefers high humidity. If your home is dry, consider placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water to increase the surrounding humidity or occasionally mist the plant.

Temperature

The Christmas Cactus thrives in moderate temperatures. It prefers temperatures between 60-70°F (15-21°C) during the day and slightly cooler temperatures at night. Avoid placing the plant in drafts, near heating vents, or close to cold windows in winter.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing is important in keeping your Christmas Cactus healthy and encouraging vibrant blooms.

• Feeding schedule: Feed your Christmas Cactus every 2-4 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer) using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20). Dilute the fertilizer to half-strength to avoid over-fertilizing.
• Fertilizing for blooms: In the fall, switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus (such as 10-15-10) to encourage flower bud formation. Stop fertilizing once the plant begins to bloom.
• Dormancy: During the plant’s dormancy period (after blooming), reduce feeding or stop entirely until the next growing season.

Pruning and Repotting

Pruning: Pruning is not usually necessary for the Christmas Cactus, but trimming it back can help shape the plant and encourage fuller growth. The best time to prune is shortly after blooming, and it’s as simple as twisting off a section at the joint between the segments. You can even use the pruned pieces for propagation (more on that below).

Repotting: The Christmas Cactus doesn’t require frequent repotting, and it tends to bloom better when it’s slightly pot-bound. Repot the plant every 2-3 years in the spring after blooming. When repotting, choose a pot that is 1-2 inches larger than the current one. Ensure it has good drainage and fill it with fresh, well-draining soil.

Holiday Cactus Types

Holiday cacti refer to three popular species that bloom during different times of the year. All are easy to care for and provide vibrant, colorful flowers during their respective seasons.

Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata): Blooms in late fall, with sharp, pointed stem segments. Flowers are vibrant, in shades of red, pink, orange, or white.

Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera × buckleyi): Blooms in December with rounded stem segments. Flowers appear in red, pink, white, or purple, making it a popular holiday plant.

Easter Cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri): Blooms in spring with smooth, scalloped stem segments. Its flowers come in shades of pink, red, and white, perfect for springtime displays.

How to Get Your Christmas Cactus to Bloom

Getting your Christmas Cactus to bloom requires mimicking its natural habitat and triggering its bloom cycle. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Light Requirements

The Christmas Cactus is a short-day plant, which means it needs extended periods of darkness to trigger blooming. From mid-September, the plant requires at least 12-14 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night for around 6-8 weeks to encourage flower bud formation. During the day, ensure it gets bright, indirect light.

To ensure the plant gets the required darkness, you can place it in a dark closet or cover it with a dark cloth at night. Once the buds appear, resume normal light exposure.

Temperature Control

Temperature plays a critical role in encouraging your Christmas Cactus to bloom. Cooler night temperatures signal the plant that it’s time to flower.

Cool nights: During the bud-setting period (fall), expose the plant to nighttime temperatures between 50-55°F (10-13°C). Daytime temperatures should be kept between 60-65°F (15-18°C). Avoid cold drafts, sudden temperature changes, or placing the plant near heat sources.

If you can, move your Christmas Cactus to a cooler room during the fall. This will help mimic the natural conditions it needs to set flower buds.

Watering Adjustments

Proper watering is crucial for encouraging bloom formation. Overwatering or underwatering at the wrong time can prevent buds from forming or cause them to drop.

• Reduce watering in fall: Starting in mid-September, reduce the amount of water you give your Christmas Cactus. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out before watering again, but don’t let the soil dry out completely. The plant should be kept slightly dry during this period of reduced light and cooler temperatures.
• Resume regular watering: Once you see flower buds starting to form, return to regular watering. Keep the soil evenly moist, but never waterlogged, during the blooming period.

Humidity and Air Circulation

Unlike typical desert cacti, the Christmas Cactus is native to tropical rainforests and enjoys higher humidity levels. Dry air can cause buds to drop, so maintaining proper humidity is essential.

• Increase humidity: Use a humidity tray or place a shallow dish filled with water near the plant to increase moisture in the air. Alternatively, occasionally mist the plant, especially in the dry winter months, when indoor heating can lower humidity levels.
• Good air circulation: Ensure the plant has proper air circulation, but avoid cold drafts. Cold, dry air can cause buds to drop prematurely.

Fertilizing for Blooming

Fertilizing is important for ensuring your Christmas Cactus has the nutrients it needs to produce flowers.

• Spring and summer: Feed your Christmas Cactus with a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) every 2-4 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer). Dilute the fertilizer to half strength to avoid overfeeding.
• Fall and winter: As fall approaches and the plant enters its blooming phase, switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus (such as 10-15-10) to promote flower bud formation. Stop fertilizing once buds appear to avoid overstressing the plant.
• Avoid Moving: Once the plant starts budding, avoid moving it around too much. Changes in its environment, like light and temperature, can cause bud drop.

Avoiding Bud Drop

One of the most frustrating problems Christmas Cactus owners face is bud drop, where flower buds form but fall off before blooming. Here are some common causes and how to avoid them:

• Overwatering or underwatering: Water the plant evenly. Do not let the soil dry out completely, but avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot and bud drop.
• Sudden temperature changes: Keep the plant away from drafts, heaters, and open windows. Any sudden shift in temperature can cause the buds to drop.
• Relocating the plant: Once buds form, avoid moving the plant, as this can cause stress and result in bud drop. Find a good location and leave the plant undisturbed until blooming is finished.
• Low humidity: Ensure the humidity levels remain high by misting the plant or using a humidity tray.

Christmas Cactus Common Problems

The Christmas Cactus is a relatively low-maintenance houseplant, but like all plants, it can experience issues if not cared for properly.

Bud Drop

One of the most frustrating issues with Christmas Cactus is bud drop, where flower buds form but fall off before they bloom. There are several causes:

• Overwatering or underwatering: Inconsistent watering can stress the plant, causing it to drop its buds.
• Sudden temperature changes: Buds are sensitive to changes in temperature. Drafts from windows, doors, heaters, or air conditioners can cause them to fall off.
• Low humidity: Dry indoor air, especially during winter, can lead to bud drop.
• Relocating the plant: Once buds form, moving the plant can cause stress, resulting in bud drop.

Solution:

• Maintain consistent watering: Keep the soil evenly moist, but not waterlogged. Let the top inch of soil dry before watering again.
• Avoid exposing the plant to temperature fluctuations and drafts. Keep it in a stable environment away from heating vents and cold windows.
• Increase humidity: Mist the plant regularly or place a humidity tray beneath it.
• Once buds form, avoid moving the plant.

Yellowing Leaves

Yellowing leaves are a sign that something is wrong with the plant’s growing conditions. Potential causes are:

• Overwatering: Christmas Cactus is prone to root rot if left in soggy soil.
• Poor drainage: If the potting mix retains too much water or the pot doesn’t have proper drainage, the roots can become waterlogged, leading to yellowing leaves.
• Nutrient deficiency: A lack of nutrients, particularly nitrogen, can cause yellow leaves.

Solution:

• Ensure the plant is in well-draining soil. Use a cactus or succulent mix or add perlite to improve drainage.
• Check that the pot has drainage holes. Empty the saucer after watering to prevent water from sitting at the bottom of the pot.
• Fertilize your Christmas Cactus every 2-4 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer) with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer.

Wilting or Drooping Stems

The stems of the Christmas Cactus may wilt or droop, even if they seem well-watered. Potential causes include:

• Underwatering: The plant may not be getting enough moisture.
• Overwatering: Excess water can lead to root rot, causing the plant to wilt.
• Poor root health: Compacted soil, root damage, or root rot can prevent the plant from absorbing water properly.

Solution:

• If the plant is underwatered, water it thoroughly and let the soil dry slightly between waterings.
• If the plant is overwatered, let the soil dry out and cut back on watering. Check the roots for rot; if necessary, trim off damaged roots and repot in fresh, well-draining soil.
• Ensure the plant is in a pot with good drainage to prevent future root issues.

No Flowers

Problem: Your Christmas Cactus may fail to bloom despite proper care. Potential causes include:

• Inadequate light: The plant may not be receiving enough light.
• Lack of cool temperatures: Christmas Cactus requires cooler temperatures (50-55°F or 10-13°C) for several weeks in the fall to encourage blooming.
• Short-day conditions not met: This plant is a short-day bloomer, meaning it needs 12-14 hours of darkness each day for about 6-8 weeks to set flower buds.

Solution:

• Move the plant to a spot with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves.
• In fall, reduce temperatures and expose the plant to cooler nights to encourage bud formation.
• Provide 12-14 hours of darkness each night for 6-8 weeks in the fall to help trigger blooms. Cover the plant with a cloth or place it in a dark room for this period.

Root Rot

Root rot is a common issue caused by overwatering, which can eventually kill the plant.

• Overwatering: Consistently soggy soil creates the perfect conditions for root rot to develop.
• Poor drainage: If the plant is in a container without proper drainage or heavy, compact soil, water can accumulate at the roots, leading to rot.

Solution:

• Remove the plant from its pot and check the roots. If they are black, mushy, or foul-smelling, trim away the affected areas.
• Repot the plant in fresh, well-draining soil, ensuring the new pot has drainage holes.
• Water less frequently, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings to prevent further rot.

Pest Infestations

Christmas Cactus can be affected by common houseplant pests.

• Spider Mites: Tiny pests cause the plant to look withered and leave webs.
• Aphids: Small bugs that suck the sap from the plant.
• Mealybugs: Cotton-like bugs found on the underside of leaves or in leaf axils.
• Scale: Hard, shield-like bugs that attach to stems and leaves.

Solution:

• Inspect the plant regularly for pests. Look for white cotton-like masses (mealybugs), fine webbing (spider mites), or small, round, brown bumps (scale insects).
• Treat infestations with insecticidal soap or neem oil, following the instructions on the product. You can also wipe the plant down with a cotton ball soaked in rubbing alcohol to remove pests manually.
• Increase humidity levels and improve air circulation to make the environment less hospitable to pests.

Sunburned Leaves

The leaves of the Christmas Cactus may become pale, scorched, or develop brown spots due to sunburn. Christmas Cactus prefers bright, indirect light and can become sunburned if exposed to too much direct sunlight.

Solution:

• Move the plant to a spot with indirect light, such as near an east-facing window.
• If the damage is severe, prune the scorched segments and allow new growth to take its place.

Leaf Drop

Christmas Cactus may lose its segments or leaves due to stress resulting from:

• Sudden environmental changes: Moving the plant, changes in temperature, or watering irregularities can stress the plant and cause leaf drop.
• Underwatering: Prolonged periods without water can cause the segments to shrivel and fall off.

Solution:

• Maintain consistent watering and avoid sudden changes in temperature or light conditions.
• If underwatered, water the plant thoroughly and allow it to recover, avoiding further stress.

How to Propagate Christmas Cactus

The best time to propagate a Christmas Cactus is during its active growing season, which is in spring or early summer. The plant has finished blooming by this time, and the new growth makes it an ideal time for propagation. Avoid propagating during the winter or while the plant is flowering, as this could stress the plant.

How to Take Cuttings

To begin propagating your Christmas Cactus, you’ll need to take healthy stem cuttings from the parent plant. Follow these steps:

Select a healthy segment: Choose a healthy, firm section of the plant that has 2-3 segments (these are the flat, jointed pieces that make up the stem). Avoid sections that look wilted or discolored.

Cut the segment: Using sharp, clean scissors or pruning shears, cut the stem at the joint between the segments. You can make several cuttings from different parts of the plant if you want to propagate multiple new plants.

Allow the cutting to dry: Before planting, allow the cutting to dry for 24-48 hours. This step is important, as it helps the cut end to form a callus, reducing the risk of rotting when planted. Place the cuttings in a dry, shaded area during this period.

Preparing the Potting Mix

While the cuttings are drying, prepare the potting mix and pot. Christmas Cactus requires a well-draining potting mix to prevent water from collecting around the roots, which can cause rot.

• Use a cactus or succulent mix or create your own by mixing regular potting soil with perlite or sand for improved drainage. A 50-50 mix of potting soil and perlite works well.
• Ensure the pot has drainage holes to allow excess water to escape. If propagating multiple cuttings, use a wide, shallow container to plant several cuttings at once.

Planting the Cuttings

Once the cut ends have dried and callused, it’s time to plant the cuttings:

• Plant the cutting: Insert the dried end of the cutting about 1 inch (2.5 cm) into the potting mix. Ensure the cutting is upright and stable. You can plant multiple cuttings in one pot if desired, leaving enough space between them.
• Water the cutting: Lightly water the soil immediately after planting. Be careful not to overwater—just keep the soil slightly moist. Water sparingly during the first few weeks, as too much moisture can cause the cutting to rot.

Caring for Your Propagated Cuttings

After planting, your Christmas Cactus cuttings will need the right conditions to develop roots and grow into healthy new plants.

• Light: Place the pot in a location where it will receive bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can scorch the cuttings or cause the soil to dry out too quickly.
• Temperature: Keep the cuttings in a warm environment, ideally between 60-70°F (15-21°C). Avoid placing the pot near cold drafts or in extremely hot areas.
• Watering: Water sparingly, keeping the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering again. Overwatering is one of the most common reasons for failure during propagation.
• Humidity: Christmas Cactus appreciates moderate humidity. If your home is particularly dry, you can mist the cuttings lightly every few days or place the pot on a humidity tray.

Rooting and New Growth

After 2-3 weeks, the cuttings should start to form roots. You can check for root development by gently tugging on the cutting. If there is resistance, it means roots have started to grow.

Once the cuttings have rooted, they will begin to produce new growth. When you notice new segments forming at the tips of the cuttings, it’s a sign that the propagation has been successful and the plant is establishing itself.

Transplanting

Once the new plant has established a good root system and started producing new growth, it can be transplanted into its permanent pot. You can either leave the cuttings in the same pot if it’s large enough or move them to a new pot if you propagated multiple plants.

• Use a pot with good drainage and fresh, well-draining soil.
• After transplanting, treat the new plant like a mature Christmas Cactus, providing it with the right light, water, and temperature conditions to continue thriving.

Propagating in Water (Optional Method)

Christmas Cactus can also be propagated in water, which allows you to see the roots develop.

• After taking the cuttings and letting them dry for a day, place the cut end into a small glass of water. Ensure only the bottom part of the segment is submerged, not the whole cutting.
• Change the water every few days to keep it fresh and prevent bacteria from growing.
• After 2-3 weeks, roots will start to appear. Once the roots are about 1-2 inches long, you can transplant the cutting into soil.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Here are some common problems you might encounter when propagating Christmas Cactus and how to fix them:

• Cuttings not rooting: This could be due to overwatering, underwatering, or lack of proper light. Make sure the soil is moist but not soggy, and ensure the cuttings are placed in bright, indirect light.
• Rotting cuttings: This is typically caused by too much moisture. Allow the cuttings to dry out properly before planting, and ensure the soil is well-draining. Water sparingly during the first few weeks.
• Slow growth: If the cuttings are slow to root or produce new growth, it could be due to low light or cool temperatures. Move the cuttings to a warmer, brighter spot to encourage faster growth.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the lifespan of a Christmas cactus?

A Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera) can live for several decades when provided with proper care. Some plants have been known to live over 50 years, and with optimal conditions, they may even surpass a century.

How often do you water a Christmas cactus?

Water your Christmas cactus when the top inch of soil begins to feel dry. In general, this means watering every 2-3 weeks, but the frequency might vary based on environmental factors. During its growing season (spring and summer), it may require more frequent watering compared to the dormant winter months.

What triggers a Christmas Cactus to bloom?

Cooler temperatures (50-55°F/10-13°C) and longer periods of darkness (12-14 hours per day) in the fall trigger a Christmas Cactus to bloom. Proper light and temperature conditions help the plant set buds.

Do Christmas Cactus need sun or no sun?

Christmas Cactus needs bright, indirect light but not direct sunlight. Direct sunlight can scorch the leaves, while too little light may prevent blooming.

Can I put my Christmas Cactus outside?

Yes, you can put your Christmas Cactus outside in the warmer months, but keep it in partial shade to avoid direct sunlight. Bring it indoors when temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C).