Learn how to grow beautiful, healthy lilies from planting to flowering and beyond. Discover the right soil, sunlight, planting depth, watering, feeding, staking, deadheading, winter care, container growing, propagation, and troubleshooting techniques for Asiatic, Oriental, Trumpet, Martagon, Orienpet, and other true lilies.
Few summer flowers are as instantly recognizable as lilies. True lilies (Lilium) rise from perennial bulbs on upright stems and carry some of the garden’s most dramatic blooms – from compact, brilliantly colored Asiatic lilies to tall, heavily scented Trumpet, Oriental, and Orienpet hybrids.
Despite their exotic appearance, lilies are not particularly difficult plants when the fundamentals are right. They need good drainage, reliable moisture during active growth, enough light for the type being grown, and healthy foliage left in place after flowering so the bulb can rebuild its reserves for the following year.
The key is not to treat every lily as though it has identical needs. Asiatic lilies, Martagons, Oriental lilies, Trumpet lilies, Orienpets, Longiflorum hybrids, and wild species differ in flowering season, fragrance, height, soil preferences, climate tolerance, and response to shade. Choosing a lily suited to your garden is the first step toward years of reliable flowering.
The most important rule: Lily bulbs need moisture while they are growing, but they must never sit for long periods in saturated soil. Good drainage is one of the best safeguards against bulb decline and rot.
The word “lily” appears in the common names of many unrelated plants, including daylilies, calla lilies, peace lilies, canna lilies, and lily of the valley. Botanically, true lilies belong to the genus Lilium in the Liliaceae family.
True lilies grow from scaly bulbs and usually produce upright stems lined with leaves. Their flowers may face upward, outward, or downward and range from open, bowl-shaped blooms to strongly recurved Turk’s-cap forms and long trumpets.
True lilies should not be confused with daylilies (Hemerocallis). Daylilies grow from fleshy root systems and form clumps of strap-like leaves at ground level, while true lilies grow from bulbs and typically carry leaves along their stems. The two plants are botanically unrelated despite sharing the word “lily.”
Garden lilies belong to several major horticultural groups. Understanding the differences makes it easier to choose plants that suit your soil, climate, available light, and desired flowering season.
Explore Gardenia’s guides to Asiatic Lilies, Oriental Lilies, Trumpet Lilies, Orienpet Lilies, Martagon Lilies, and Species and Wild Lilies. For a side-by-side decision guide, see How to Choose Lilies.
Most commonly grown lilies flower best in full sun or partial shade. A site receiving several hours of direct sunlight usually produces sturdy stems and generous flowering, although requirements vary among groups.
The old advice to grow lilies with their “heads in the sun and feet in the shade” is useful if interpreted correctly. Lilies appreciate plenty of light above ground while their bulbs and roots benefit from cooler soil. A layer of organic mulch or compatible neighboring plants can help shade the root zone without depriving the stems of sunlight.
Martagons and some woodland species are notable exceptions to the sunny-border rule and may thrive in light or dappled shade. Deep shade, however, usually reduces flowering and can produce weaker, leaning stems.
Lilies perform best in fertile soil that drains freely after rain while retaining enough moisture to support vigorous spring and summer growth.
For the best results, aim for soil that is:
Loam is ideal, but both sandy and clay soils can be improved. Heavy clay becomes problematic when water remains around the bulbs for prolonged periods. Improve the wider planting area with organic matter, use raised beds where drainage is chronically poor, or grow lilies in containers rather than placing valuable bulbs in saturated ground.
Very sandy soil presents the opposite problem: it may drain so quickly that lilies suffer drought during stem elongation and flowering. Compost and organic mulch help increase moisture retention without sacrificing drainage.
Heavy soil? Do not improve only the planting hole. A small pocket of loose compost surrounded by dense, wet clay can still leave lily bulbs sitting in water. Improve drainage across the wider bed, plant on a raised area, or grow lilies in containers if the site remains persistently wet.
Many garden lilies tolerate a fairly broad pH range, but there are important differences. Oriental lilies generally perform best in acidic to neutral soil and may struggle in strongly alkaline or chalky ground. Many Asiatic lilies are less demanding, while individual species can have quite specific preferences.
When growing wild or specialist lilies, follow the requirements of the species rather than applying one universal pH rule to the entire genus.
When lilies disappear after winter: Do not automatically blame cold. A hardy lily may tolerate severe freezing more successfully than months of cold, saturated soil. Poor winter drainage is one of the first things to investigate when established bulbs repeatedly fail to return.
Lily bulbs can be planted in fall or spring. Fall is an excellent planting season for many hardy lilies because the soil is still workable and roots can begin establishing before winter. Spring planting is equally practical when bulbs become available later or winter conditions are exceptionally severe.
Unlike tulips or daffodils, lily bulbs lack a dry, papery outer tunic. Their fleshy scales can lose moisture, so bulbs should not be stored unnecessarily once purchased.
Choose bulbs that feel firm and substantial for their size. Avoid specimens that are badly shriveled, extensively moldy, or soft with obvious rot. A little superficial marking is usually less concerning than scales that are soft, badly discolored, or actively decaying.
There is no single planting depth that suits every lily. One of the most useful distinctions is whether the plant is stem-rooting or basal-rooting.
Stem-rooting lilies produce additional roots from the buried portion of the stem above the bulb. These lilies are generally planted more deeply, often at around two and a half times the height of the bulb.
Basal-rooting lilies produce their main roots from the base of the bulb. They are typically planted more shallowly, with a layer of soil above the bulb roughly similar to the bulb’s own height.
If the rooting habit is unknown, avoid assuming that every lily should automatically be buried deeply. Species lilies in particular may have specialized planting requirements.
Lilium candidum, the Madonna lily, is a well-known exception and is normally planted considerably more shallowly than many common hybrid lilies.
For more detailed recommendations by type, see Lilies: Planting Depth and Distance.
Why planting depth matters: Deep planting is not merely about protecting bulbs from frost. Stem-rooting lilies need sufficient buried stem above the bulb to develop their additional feeding roots. Basal-rooting lilies do not require the same depth.
Spacing depends on bulb size, mature height and spread, and the effect you want in the border. Lilies usually make a stronger display when planted in informal groups rather than scattered as isolated stems.
Avoid crowding bulbs so closely that mature foliage receives little air circulation. Persistently wet, congested foliage creates favorable conditions for Botrytis and other foliar problems.
Tall lilies also need sufficient room from aggressive neighboring plants. Companion plants should match the lilies in light, soil, drainage, and moisture requirements rather than being selected for flower color alone.
For suitable combinations, see Great Companion Plants for Lilies.
Keep the soil reasonably and consistently moist while lilies are actively growing, especially as stems elongate and flower buds develop. What lilies dislike is either extreme: soil that repeatedly becomes bone dry or bulbs sitting for days in saturated ground.
Pay particular attention to watering when:
Water deeply when rainfall is insufficient and direct the water toward the soil rather than routinely soaking the leaves and flowers. A thorough watering that moistens the root zone is more useful than frequent shallow sprinkling.
Moist does not mean wet. During active growth, lilies appreciate steady moisture, but the bulb zone should still drain freely after rain or irrigation. Persistently saturated soil deprives roots and bulbs of oxygen and increases the risk of decay.
Organic mulch helps conserve moisture, moderates soil temperature, and keeps the bulb zone cooler. A layer approximately 2-3 inches (5-7 cm) deep is usually sufficient.
Container-grown lilies require closer monitoring because pots can dry rapidly in hot or windy weather. At the same time, containers must drain freely. Never allow lily pots to sit permanently in water-filled saucers.
Lilies growing in fertile soil enriched with organic matter often need only modest supplemental feeding. Where soil fertility is low, or lilies are grown in containers, a balanced fertilizer can support vigorous stems and good flowering.
Begin feeding as growth becomes established if fertilizer is needed, and continue according to the product label during active growth. Feeding does not necessarily need to stop when flowering ends. Healthy leaves continue working after the blooms have faded, rebuilding the bulb’s energy reserves for the following season.
Avoid excessive nitrogen. Very lush, soft growth is not necessarily a sign of better lily care and can produce tall, weaker stems without improving flower production.
Many compact Asiatic lilies stand without assistance, but tall Trumpet, Oriental, Orienpet, and species lilies may benefit from support, particularly in windy gardens or fertile soil where plants reach the upper end of their expected height.
Install stakes before flower buds become heavy enough to bend the stems. Insert supports far enough from the bulb to avoid piercing it and fasten the stem loosely with soft ties.
In mixed borders, sturdy neighboring perennials can provide discreet natural support, often making formal staking unnecessary.
Once individual flowers fade, remove them if you do not intend to collect seed. Snip away the spent flower or developing seedpod while leaving the green stem and leaves intact.
The plant is not finished when the flowers disappear. Its leaves continue photosynthesizing and sending carbohydrates back into the bulb, helping create the energy reserves needed for the next growing season.
Next year’s flowers are being prepared now: Cutting green lily stems immediately after flowering may make the border look tidier, but it also removes the bulb’s main source of energy. Wait until foliage has yellowed naturally before cutting the stems down.
Continue watering during prolonged dry weather while substantial green foliage remains. As the leaves yellow and the plant enters dormancy, supplemental watering can be reduced.
Once the stems have naturally senesced, cut them close to ground level. Do not yank them from the soil, as pulling may disturb or damage the bulb.
Lilies adapt remarkably well to containers and are excellent choices where garden soil is poorly drained, unsuitable in pH, or simply unavailable.
For cultivar recommendations and detailed pot culture, see Best Lilies for Pots and Containers.
Many garden lilies are hardy perennials. Their stems die back in fall while the bulbs remain dormant underground and produce fresh growth the following spring.
Hardiness varies considerably among species and hybrids, so check the requirements of the lily you are growing. A plant described simply as “a lily” may be far more or less cold tolerant than another member of the genus.
The main winter priorities are:
Bulbs in pots are more exposed to temperature fluctuations than those growing in the ground. In severe climates, insulate containers or move them to a sheltered, cold location where the bulbs remain dormant.
Lilies are perennial bulbs, not short-lived seasonal flowers. In suitable conditions, bulbs can persist for many years and often increase by producing offsets, gradually creating larger clumps.
A declining clump does not necessarily mean the lilies have reached the end of their natural lifespan. Increasing shade, overcrowding, poor drainage, prolonged drought, disease, virus infection, depleted soil, or repeated premature removal of green foliage can all reduce flowering over time.
Healthy clumps do not need annual lifting or division. Leave vigorous lilies undisturbed until crowding noticeably reduces stem strength or flower production.
No annual lifting required: Healthy lilies generally perform best when allowed to establish and remain undisturbed. Divide them because the clump has become genuinely crowded or flowering has declined, not simply because another growing season has passed.
As lily bulbs mature, many naturally divide and form offsets. Eventually, a successful planting may become crowded enough that individual stems are thinner and flowering begins to decline.
When division becomes necessary:
Martagon lilies are best left undisturbed once established, and some species lilies also respond poorly to unnecessary lifting.
Lilies can be propagated in several ways, which is one of the most interesting features of the genus.
Named cultivars should be propagated vegetatively if identical plants are required. Seedlings produced from hybrids may differ substantially from the parent.
Healthy lilies are generally vigorous, but several pests can damage emerging shoots, leaves, buds, and flowers.
Regular inspection from the moment shoots emerge makes pest problems much easier to manage before substantial damage occurs.
Lily disease, commonly called Botrytis blight, is primarily associated with Botrytis elliptica, a fungus particularly adapted to lilies. It attacks above-ground growth rather than functioning as a typical bulb rot.
Symptoms often begin as pale or brown spots on foliage and can progress to extensive browning, blighting, and collapse when cool, wet conditions favor infection.
Improve air circulation, avoid unnecessarily wetting foliage, remove heavily affected material, and clear infected debris at the end of the growing season. Even when foliage is badly damaged, the underground bulb may survive and produce healthy shoots the following year.
Several viruses infect lilies. Symptoms may include leaf mottling, streaking, distortion, reduced vigor, and poor flowering, although some infected plants show only subtle signs.
Aphids can transmit important lily viruses. Do not propagate from obviously infected plants, begin with healthy bulbs, and remove seriously affected specimens where virus infection is strongly suspected.
Fusarium and other fungi can cause bulb or basal decay. Symptoms may include soft or discolored bulb scales, weak shoots, premature yellowing, poor growth, and eventual collapse.
Healthy planting stock, careful handling, clean growing conditions, and good drainage are far more reliable than attempting to rescue extensively rotted bulbs.
Having trouble with pests, damaged leaves, bulb rot, or mysterious symptoms? See Gardenia’s Lily Pests and Diseases: Identification, Prevention and Treatment guide to identify the problem and learn the best ways to prevent and manage it.
A lily producing foliage but few or no flowers is not necessarily hungry. Poor flowering can result from several different stresses.
A planting that once flowered freely may gradually decline as surrounding shrubs and trees grow and cast more shade. Likewise, repeatedly cutting lily stems while they are still green can slowly weaken the bulbs even though the effects may not be obvious in the first year.
Healthy leaves but no flowers? Discover why lilies fail to bloom and how to fix the problem.
Critical cat-safety warning: True lilies (Lilium) are extremely dangerous to cats. Flowers, leaves, stems, pollen, and even water from a vase containing lilies can pose a serious risk. Suspected exposure requires immediate veterinary attention – do not wait for symptoms to appear.
This warning applies to true lilies such as Asiatic, Oriental, Trumpet, Easter, and many other commonly grown Lilium. Daylilies (Hemerocallis) are botanically different but can also cause severe kidney injury in cats.
Plants with “lily” in their common name are not necessarily true lilies and may contain entirely different toxins. Botanical identification is therefore important when evaluating pet safety.
| Season | Main Lily Tasks |
|---|---|
| Spring | Plant newly purchased bulbs, watch for emerging shoots, protect tender growth from slugs and snails, water during dry weather, feed where necessary, and inspect for lily beetles and aphids. |
| Summer | Maintain reliable moisture, support tall stems, monitor for pests and Botrytis, enjoy the flowers, deadhead spent blooms, and leave green stems and foliage intact. |
| Fall | Allow foliage to yellow naturally, cut down dead stems, remove diseased debris, divide congested clumps where necessary, and plant hardy bulbs in suitable climates. |
| Winter | Make sure dormant bulbs are not sitting in saturated soil, protect vulnerable containers from severe freezing, and plan planting combinations and bloom succession for the following season. |
A successful lily display begins with healthy bulbs and the right plant for the site. Give most garden lilies good light, fertile soil, reliable moisture during active growth, and – above all – drainage that keeps the bulbs from remaining waterlogged.
Once flowering ends, leave healthy foliage alone until it naturally yellows. That quiet post-flowering period is when the bulb is storing much of the energy that will power next year’s stems and flowers.
The diversity within Lilium is one of its greatest strengths. Gardeners can choose early Asiatic lilies, shade-tolerant Martagons, fragrant Trumpets, sumptuous Oriental lilies, vigorous Orienpets, compact container cultivars, and an extraordinary range of wild species. Match the lily to the garden rather than forcing the garden to fit the lily, and these spectacular bulbs can remain among the highlights of summer for many years.
Lily bulbs can be planted in fall or spring. Fall is an excellent planting time for many hardy lilies because roots can begin establishing before winter. Spring planting also works well. Plant bulbs reasonably soon after purchase because lilies lack the dry protective tunic found on some other bulbs and can lose moisture in storage.
Most garden lilies flower best in full sun or partial shade. Asiatic, Trumpet, Oriental, and Orienpet lilies generally appreciate substantial light, while Martagons and some woodland species tolerate light or dappled shade. Deep shade usually reduces flowering.
Planting depth depends on the lily’s rooting habit. Stem-rooting lilies are generally planted deeper, often at around two and a half times the bulb’s height, because they form additional roots from the buried stem. Basal-rooting lilies are usually planted more shallowly. Some species, including Lilium candidum, have special requirements.
Yes. True lilies are perennial bulbs. Hardy types normally return each year when grown in suitable conditions, and many gradually multiply by producing offsets. Longevity depends on the species or cultivar, climate, drainage, light, disease pressure, and overall garden conditions.
Yes, if seed is not required. Remove faded flowers or developing seedpods but leave the green stem and foliage intact. The leaves continue photosynthesizing after flowering and replenish the bulb’s energy reserves for the following year.
Wait until the leaves and stems have yellowed and died back naturally. Green foliage is still supplying energy to the bulb. Once the stem has senesced, cut it near ground level and remove it, especially if disease affected the plant during the growing season.
Possible causes include insufficient sunlight, small or immature bulbs, foliage removed too early the previous season, drought, poor drainage, overcrowding, excessive nitrogen, pests, diseases, or a lily poorly adapted to the climate.
Yes. Most lilies grow well in containers. Use a deep pot with generous drainage holes, fertile but freely draining potting mix, and enough weight or support for taller cultivars. Container lilies need consistent moisture during growth and may require winter protection in cold climates.
Water according to soil conditions rather than on a fixed schedule. Keep the root zone reasonably moist during active growth and flowering, but never leave the bulbs in saturated soil. Deep watering during dry periods is preferable to frequent shallow sprinkling.
True lilies belong to the genus Lilium and grow from scaly bulbs, usually producing leaves along upright stems. Daylilies belong to the genus Hemerocallis, grow from fleshy roots, and form clumps of strap-like basal leaves. They are botanically different plants.
Yes. True lilies in the genus Lilium are extremely dangerous to cats. Flowers, leaves, stems, pollen, and vase water can cause life-threatening kidney injury. Daylilies can cause similar severe poisoning. Any suspected exposure should be treated as an immediate veterinary emergency.
Updated: August 2026 • Reviewed by Gardenia Editors
| Hardiness |
3 - 9 |
|---|---|
| Plant Type | Bulbs, Perennials |
| Genus | Lilium |
| Exposure | Full Sun, Partial Sun |
| Season of Interest | Spring (Late), Summer (Early, Mid, Late), Fall |
| Maintenance | Low |
| Water Needs | Average |
| Soil Drainage | Moist but Well-Drained |
| Characteristics | Cut Flowers, Fragrant, Showy |
| Attracts | Bees, Butterflies, Hummingbirds |
| Landscaping Ideas | Beds And Borders, Patio And Containers |
| Garden Styles | City and Courtyard, Cutting Garden, Informal and Cottage |
| Hardiness |
3 - 9 |
|---|---|
| Plant Type | Bulbs, Perennials |
| Genus | Lilium |
| Exposure | Full Sun, Partial Sun |
| Season of Interest | Spring (Late), Summer (Early, Mid, Late), Fall |
| Maintenance | Low |
| Water Needs | Average |
| Soil Drainage | Moist but Well-Drained |
| Characteristics | Cut Flowers, Fragrant, Showy |
| Attracts | Bees, Butterflies, Hummingbirds |
| Landscaping Ideas | Beds And Borders, Patio And Containers |
| Garden Styles | City and Courtyard, Cutting Garden, Informal and Cottage |
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Create a membership account to save your garden designs and to view them on any device.
Becoming a contributing member of Gardenia is easy and can be done in just a few minutes. If you provide us with your name, email address and the payment of a modest $25 annual membership fee, you will become a full member, enabling you to design and save up to 25 of your garden design ideas.
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