Philodendron ‘Pink Princess’

The Philodendron ‘Pink Princess’ is a striking variety of Philodendron, cherished by houseplant enthusiasts for its unique coloration and easy care requirements.

Philodendron ‘Pink Princess’: An In-depth Look

Pink Princess Philodendron is a stunning cultivar cherished for its dark green leaves adorned with vibrant pink variegation. This variegation can appear as splashes, streaks, or even entire leaves, making each plant unique. The contrast between the pink and green is eye-catching and highly sought after in the plant community.

Native: Philodendrons are native to the tropical regions of the Americas and the Caribbean. These plants are accustomed to the warm, humid environments of rainforests. They belong to the arum family (Araceae), along with Zantedeschia (Calla Lily), Caladium (Angel Wing), Monstera (Swiss Cheese Plant), or Colocasia (Elephant Ear).

Plant Type and Habit: Pink Princess Philodendron is a slow-growing, climbing or trailing perennial adorned with bright red stems when young. It can be trained to grow up a support or allowed to cascade beautifully from a hanging basket or shelf.

Size: The plant can reach a height of 3-4 feet (90-120 cm) and a spread of 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) indoors, depending on the support provided and the conditions of its environment. Its growth can be quite vigorous under optimal conditions.

Flowers: Pink Princess Philodendron can produce flowers, though it’s a rare occurrence in indoor settings. The flowers are typical of Philodendron, with a white spadix and purple-red spathe structure, but they are not the main attraction of this plant.

Foliage: Pink Princess Philodendron displays captivating foliage characterized by its glossy, heart-shaped, dark green leaves, 8 inches long (20 cm), dramatically variegated with shades of pink, from blush to deep fuchsia. Each leaf is unique, with the variegation presenting in various patterns, including splashes, spots, and large swathes, creating a striking contrast. This variegation is a result of a genetic mutation.

Hardiness: If planted outdoors, this plant is hardy in USDA zones 10-12. It is best suited to indoor environments where temperatures can be kept consistent, ideally between 65-75°F (18-24°C). It is not frost-tolerant and should be protected from cold drafts.

Uses: Pink Princess Philodendron is primarily grown as a decorative houseplant, valued for its stunning appearance. It can add a splash of color to any indoor plant collection and is often used as a statement piece in interior design.

Toxicity: Philodendrons are toxic to humans, cats, and dogs if ingested. They contain calcium oxalate crystals that can cause mouth and stomach irritation. Contact with the sap may cause skin irritation.

Deer and Rabbits: Its toxicity generally deters deer and rabbits.

Benefits:  Aside from its aesthetic appeal, the Pink Princess Philodendron can contribute to improving indoor air quality by filtering out pollutants, a common trait among Philodendrons.

Pink Princess Philodendron Plant Care

Light: Pink Princess Philodendron prefers bright, indirect light to maintain its unique coloring. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch their leaves.

Soil: Use a well-draining, peat-based potting mix. Pink Princess Philodendron prefers slightly acidic to neutral pH levels. Ensure the pot has drainage holes to prevent water from accumulating at the bottom.

Water: Water your Pink Princess Philodendron when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Over-watering can lead to root rot, so ensure proper drainage.

Temperature and Humidity: Ideal temperatures range between 65°F and 80°F (18°C to 27°C). Philodendrons can tolerate a wider range, but sudden temperature drops or exposure to cold drafts should be avoided. These tropical plants enjoy high humidity but can adapt to average household humidity levels.
For added humidity, mist the leaves regularly, place a humidifier nearby, or set the plant on a pebble tray filled with water.

Fertilization: Feed your Pink Princess Philodendron with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer). Reduce feeding in fall and winter when growth slows.

Pruning: Pruning is not strictly necessary but can help maintain shape and encourage fuller growth. Use sterile scissors or pruning shears to trim away any yellow or damaged leaves and to manage size.

Repotting: Repot every 2-3 years or when roots start to crowd the pot. Choose a pot that is one size larger than the current one to ensure continued growth.

How to Propagate Pink Princess Philodendron – A Step-By-Step Guide

Propagating Philodendron plants is a straightforward and rewarding process, allowing you to expand your collection or share with friends and family. The most common method is stem cuttings, which can be rooted in water or soil. Here’s how to do it:

Propagation by Stem Cuttings in Water:

Choose a Healthy Stem: Look for a healthy stem with at least 2-3 leaves and a few nodes (the points on the stem where leaves attach and roots tend to grow).

Make the Cut: Using a clean, sharp knife or scissors, cut just below a node. The cutting should be about 4-6 inches long.

Prepare the Cutting: Remove any leaves that would be submerged when you place the stem in water to prevent rot.

Root in Water: Place the cutting in a glass or jar of water, ensuring the node is submerged. Leave the leaves out of the water. Place the jar in a warm, bright spot with indirect light.

Change the Water Regularly: Refresh the water every few days to keep it clean, which helps prevent bacterial growth.

Wait for Roots: Roots should start to emerge from the nodes in about 2-4 weeks. Wait until the roots are a few inches long before potting.

Potting: Once the roots are sufficiently developed, plant the cutting in a pot with well-draining soil. Care for it as you would a mature Philodendron.

Propagation by Stem Cuttings in Soil:

Prepare Your Cutting: Follow the same steps as above to select and cut a healthy stem section.

Rooting Hormone (Optional): Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone powder to encourage root growth. This step is optional but can enhance rooting success.

Plant the Cutting: Fill a pot with a well-draining potting mix. Make a hole in the center and insert the cut end of the stem, ensuring at least one node is buried beneath the soil surface.

Water and Cover: Water the soil lightly to settle it around the cutting. To create a humid microenvironment, you can cover the pot with a plastic bag or place it in a propagator. Ensure the leaves are not touching the plastic to prevent rot.

Care for Your Cutting: Place the pot in a warm, bright location with indirect light. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged.

Wait for Growth: In a few weeks, the cutting should start to root. You can gently tug on the plant after about 4 weeks; if there’s resistance, roots have formed.

Pink Princess Philodendron: Pests, Diseases, Common Problems

Philodendrons can encounter pests, diseases, and other common problems, especially when grown indoors.

Pests

Spider Mites: These tiny pests can be identified by the fine webs they weave on the plant. They cause yellowing or speckled leaves. Increase humidity around the plant and wash it with a strong stream of water. For severe infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Mealybugs: These white, cottony pests tend to cluster in leaf axils and under leaves, sucking sap and weakening the plant. Remove with alcohol-dipped cotton swabs or apply neem oil.

Aphids: Small, soft-bodied insects that can be green, black, brown, or pink, aphids typically feed in groups on the undersides of leaves. Combat them with a gentle spray of water, neem oil, or insecticidal soap to protect the plant’s health and appearance.

Scale insects: Hard or soft-bodied insects that attach themselves to the stems or leaves, causing yellowing and growth stunting. Scrape off with a fingernail or use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Insecticidal soap or neem oil may also be used.

Diseases

Root rot:  Overwatering is the primary cause, leading to brown, mushy roots and yellowing leaves. Reduce watering, improve drainage, and repot the plant into fresh, well-draining soil. Severely affected roots should be trimmed before repotting.

Leaf spot: Fungal or bacterial infections can cause dark or black spots on leaves, often with a yellow halo. Increase air circulation, avoid wetting leaves when watering, and remove affected leaves. Fungicides or bactericides may be necessary in severe cases.

Common Problems

Yellowing Leaves:  Overwatering, poor drainage, or nutrient deficiencies can cause leaves to turn yellow. Adjust watering habits, ensure the pot has adequate drainage, and consider applying a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer.

Leggy Growth or Small Leaves: Insufficient light can lead to stretched stems and smaller than normal leaves. Move the plant to a location with more indirect light.

Loss of Variegation: If variegated Philodendrons revert to solid green, it’s often due to insufficient light. Increase light exposure, but avoid direct sunlight to encourage variegation.

Brown Leaf Tips: Often a sign of low humidity or salt buildup from tap water. Increase humidity around the plant and consider using filtered water or rainwater.