Citrus × floridana (Limequat)

Limequat: A Tangy Citrus Hybrid with Edible Skin

The Limequat (Citrus × floridana) is a compact, cold-hardy citrus hybrid developed in 1909 by botanist Walter Tennyson Swingle. This unique fruit is a cross between the Key lime and the kumquat, combining the tartness of limes with the sweet, edible peel of kumquats. Its ornamental value, edible appeal, and container-friendly size make it a favorite among citrus lovers worldwide.

The Limequat belongs to the citrus family Rutaceae, which includes other popular citrus fruits such as grapefruit, orange, lemon, pomelo, clementine, mandarin, tangerine, calamansi, finger lime, and Kaffir lime.

Native Range

Originally bred in Florida, Limequat trees are now grown in the United States (California, Arizona, Texas, Florida), Israel, Japan, Malaysia, South Africa, Spain, and the United Kingdom. They thrive in warm, subtropical climates and are ideal for USDA Zones 9–10.

Growth Habit

This small evergreen tree or shrub grows 4–8 feet (1.2–2.5 m) tall and wide. It has a bushy, symmetrical form and glossy, deep green leaves. Occasional thorns may appear at leaf axils. The plant flowers and fruits up to 7 months a year before entering a resting phase.

Leaves

Leaves are lance-shaped, smooth, aromatic, and evergreen. They contribute to the tree’s ornamental appeal and are similar to other citrus species.

Flowers

Small, white, fragrant flowers appear primarily in spring but may bloom throughout the year in mild climates. Flowers are self-fertile, though hand-pollination can increase indoor yields.

Fruits

The fruits are oval, 1–2 inches (2–5 cm) long, with a thin, smooth, sweet rind and juicy, tart pulp. They resemble kumquats in texture but taste more like limes. Fruits are typically green when harvested and ripen to yellow or yellow-orange. The entire fruit, including peel, is edible.

Hardiness

USDA Zones 9–10. Limequats tolerate brief dips to 20°F (-6°C), making them more cold-hardy than limes but less so than kumquats. In colder zones, they can be grown in containers and brought indoors for winter.

Uses

• Culinary: Eaten whole, sliced in fruit salads, or used in marmalades, jams, sauces, and limequat pie.
• Beverages: Adds zest to cocktails, mocktails, and flavored water.
• Preserves: Excellent candied or used in conserves; remove seeds before cooking to avoid bitterness.
• Ornamental: Attractive compact growth, glossy foliage, and fragrant flowers make it ideal for patios and indoor decor.
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Toxicity

Limequats are non-toxic to humans and pets. However, the oils and sap may cause skin irritation in sensitive individuals. Wash hands after handling the plant or fruit.

Limequat Nutrition and Health Benefits

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How to Grow and Care for Limequat Trees

Light Requirements

Limequat trees thrive in full sun and need at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Outdoors, place them in a sunny, wind-protected location. Indoors, set them near a south-facing window with bright light exposure. Insufficient light can hinder flowering and fruit production.

Soil Requirements

Limequats prefer well-drained, fertile soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0–7.0). For container growing, use citrus potting mix or a blend of loamy soil, sand, and perlite. Avoid compacted or poorly draining soils that increase the risk of root rot.

Watering

Water deeply and consistently. Young trees need watering every 2–3 days during the establishment period. Mature trees benefit from weekly watering, allowing the top 2–3 inches (5-7 cm) of soil to dry between waterings. In winter, reduce frequency but do not let the soil dry out completely.

Temperature and Humidity

Ideal temperature range is 50–95°F (10–35°C). Limequats tolerate brief dips to 26–28°F (-3 to -2°C) but are not fully frost-hardy. In cold climates, grow in containers and bring indoors when temperatures drop below freezing. They prefer moderate humidity; mist indoor plants or use a pebble tray when the air is dry.

Fertilizing

Use a balanced, citrus-specific fertilizer high in potassium and micronutrients. Fertilize every 6 weeks during spring and summer. Reduce to every 2–3 months in fall and winter. Yellowing leaves with green veins may indicate nutrient deficiencies—use liquid feed to correct.

Pruning

Prune lightly to shape the canopy, remove dead or crossing branches, and encourage airflow. Pruning is best done in late winter or early spring before new growth begins. Remove basal suckers to concentrate energy on fruit production.

Container Growing

Choose a container with drainage holes, 2–4 inches wider than the root ball. Use a well-draining citrus mix. Repot only when the tree has outgrown its pot, typically every 2–3 years. Move containers outdoors in warm seasons and bring indoors before frost.

Pollination

Limequat trees are self-fertile and do not require a second tree for fruiting. For indoor plants, hand-pollination using a small brush can enhance fruit yield.

Mulching and General Maintenance

Apply a 2–3 inch (5-7 cm) layer of organic mulch around the base to retain soil moisture and suppress weeds, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. Clean fallen leaves and inspect regularly for aphids, scale insects, or spider mites.

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Harvesting Limequats and Storage

When to Harvest

• Limequats are typically harvested between November and March, though some trees may fruit year-round.
• Pick when the fruit turns from green to yellow or yellow-orange, depending on your flavor preference.
• Green fruits are tart and lime-like; yellow ones are sweeter and more aromatic.

How to Harvest

• Use clean, sharp pruning shears or gently twist the fruit to detach it from the branch without damaging the tree.
• Harvest regularly to encourage continuous blooming and fruiting throughout the season.

Storage

• Store freshly harvested limequats at room temperature to continue ripening.
• Once ripe, place in the refrigerator to extend freshness for up to two weeks.
• For long-term storage, preserve in jams, marmalades, or freeze the juice and zest.

How to Propagate Limequats

Seed Propagation

• Limequats contain seeds, but seedlings may not grow true to the parent plant.
• Allow seeds to dry for a day or two, then plant in moist, well-draining soil.
• Germination typically takes 2–4 weeks with warmth and indirect light.

Cuttings

• Take semi-hardwood cuttings 6–8 inches long from healthy, disease-free branches in late spring or early summer.
• Dip cut ends in rooting hormone and plant in a mix of perlite and peat moss or coarse sand.
• Maintain high humidity and bright, indirect light. Roots may form in 6–8 weeks.

Grafting

• Grafting onto hardy rootstocks such as trifoliate orange or sour orange is common in commercial production.
• Use whip-and-tongue or cleft grafting techniques in early spring when rootstock and scion are actively growing.
• Grafting improves disease resistance and adaptability to different soil conditions.

Air Layering

• Choose a healthy branch and make a shallow cut or ring bark near a node.
• Wrap the wound with moist sphagnum moss and cover it with plastic wrap secured at both ends.
• Roots may develop in 4–8 weeks. Once formed, cut below the roots and transplant into soil.

Common Pests and Diseases of Limequat Trees

Pests

• Aphids: Small, soft-bodied insects that cluster on young shoots and the undersides of leaves. They suck sap and excrete sticky honeydew, which promotes sooty mold.
• Mealybugs: White, cotton-like pests that feed on plant sap, causing leaf yellowing and stunted growth. Wipe off or treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
• Spider Mites: Tiny arachnids that thrive in dry environments. They cause stippling and fine webbing on leaves. Increase humidity and treat with neem oil or miticides.
• Scale Insects: Appear as hard, shell-like bumps on stems and leaves. They suck sap and can weaken the plant. Use horticultural oil or encourage beneficial predators like ladybugs.
• Leafminers: Larvae that tunnel through leaf tissue, leaving winding trails and causing distortion. Prune affected leaves and apply neem oil to prevent spread.
• Fungus Gnats: Attracted to overly wet soil. Reduce watering and improve drainage; use sticky traps if needed.
• Whiteflies: Small, white flying insects that feed on the undersides of leaves, excreting honeydew that leads to mold growth. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil.
• Thrips: Slender insects that feed on citrus blossoms and young fruit, causing scarring. Monitor closely and control with organic sprays.

Diseases

• Citrus Canker: Bacterial infection that causes raised, water-soaked lesions on leaves, fruit, and stems. Highly contagious; remove and destroy affected parts.
• Greasy Spot: A fungal disease that causes yellowish-brown, oily-looking spots on the undersides of leaves. Improve air circulation and apply copper-based fungicide.
• Root Rot (Phytophthora): Caused by overwatering or poorly draining soil. Leads to wilting, yellowing leaves, and mushy roots. Ensure proper drainage and remove infected roots.
• Melanose: A fungal disease causing dark, rough lesions on fruit, twigs, and leaves. Usually cosmetic but may affect marketability. Prune dead wood and apply fungicides.
• Anthracnose: Causes leaf drop, fruit blemishes, and twig dieback in humid conditions. Prune affected parts and apply fungicides preventively.

Prevention and Control

• Inspect trees regularly for early signs of pests and disease. Prompt removal of infested leaves can prevent spread.
• Maintain good air circulation by spacing plants properly and pruning for airflow.
• Water properly: avoid overwatering and use well-draining soil to reduce fungal risk.
• Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or horticultural oil as needed for pest control.
• Apply copper-based fungicides preventatively in wet or humid conditions to manage fungal infections.
• Encourage natural predators such as ladybugs and lacewings for organic pest control.