Spring Blooming Camellias

Growing Camellia

A common myth about Camellias is that they are very fussy and difficult to grow. This is not true. Camellias are exceptionally care-free plants if they are given a well-chosen site.

• Part shade lovers, camellias are best grown in consistently moist, acidic, organically rich, well-drained soils, similarly to azaleas and rhododendrons. Apply a root mulch (leaves or shredded bark) and provide a site sheltered from cold, dry winds, as cold winds may damage buds and flowers. Protect from the early morning sun and the direct hot summer afternoon sun. Older camellia plants can thrive in full sun when mature enough to have their roots shaded by a dense canopy of leaves.
• Pruning is rarely needed as most plants develop an attractive shape without pruning. If deemed necessary, pruning should be done just after blooming to avoid removing next year’s flower buds.
• Pick up blooms that drop to the ground to minimize petal blight. (rust spots on the flowers)
• Spring planting, rather than fall, is recommended for northern areas because it gives the plant more time to get established before hard freezes. Watering regularly and deeply is vital in the first summer after planting.
• Fertilizing is unnecessary, but a light application in springtime will increase growth. Excessive or late feeding can lead to bud drop. Some flower bud dropping may be a natural phenomenon as many camellias set more buds than they can open.
• Camellias are susceptible to some viruses and fungal diseases, including leaf spots, anthracnose, black mold, petal blight, canker, and root rot. Watch also for aphids, planthoppers, and spider mites.

Landscaping with Camellias

• Highly ornamental, camellias look fabulous in mixed shrub borders, where they display dramatic winter blooms. They still add beauty to the landscape, even when they are not in bloom. Their handsome evergreen foliage creates a lovely backdrop for other shrubs and flowers. This helps present a continuously changing scenery during the year. As each season approaches, new blooms emerge, such as masses of brilliant pink tulips in a pale blue cloud of forget-me-nots for a fresh, eye-pleasing display.
• Plant camellias near other acid-loving plants, such as azalea and rhododendron. Plant at least 5 ft. (150 cm) away from other plants to allow good air circulation and prevent competition for water while becoming established.
• Camellias are also well-suited flowering shrubs for woodland gardens 
• Camellias can be used to create screens and hedges. Plant your camellias 3 ft. apart (90 cm) when using them as hedges.
• Perfect as a specimen plant, many Camellia sasanqua are excellent choices for espaliers.
• Camellias make lovely container-grown plants and this is a particularly great method if your garden soil is too alkaline for camellias.

Your Camellia Doesn’t Bloom or Losses Flower Buds?

These common problems can be easily avoided by providing good growing conditions:

• Water during dry spells in late summer when flower buds are forming
• Mulch with a 3-4in (7-10 cm) layer of chipped bark or leaf mold in late winter or early spring to conserve water around the roots
• Move container-grown camellias out from under the eaves of the house in late summer or fall so that they catch the rainfall
• Do not feed camellias later than the end of July, as excessive or late feeding can lead to bud drop. Some natural bud drop may occur where too many buds have formed, particularly with double-flowered cultivars. This should not be excessive and is nothing to worry about
• Protect tender cultivars with a double layer of horticultural fleece in winter, as low temperatures can lead to bud drop.